hey guys welcome back to today's video and thanks for choosing my video to watch out of these thousands of options in today's skincare video we are going to be trying a really unique product is a beauty product that has been squished to load the size of a nickel guys it is a compressed face mask today's product is by Beauty bits australia and it comes with 25 compressed sheet mask per pack and before we go any further if you're new to my channel guys don't forget to subscribe down below it really helped me out and don't forget to hit that Bell notification so you know every time I upload a new video no it's really interesting able to compress face mask other than the fact that is already compressed is that you get to add your own serum or toner to it doesn't come soak in anything already so you get to make your own personalized face mask and if you're anything like me you have about five or six serums on the go at once so before they expire this is a really great process to help get rid of them and use them up and the best part of this mask is totally the customizable aspect whether you have dry skin that you're looking to get rid of fine lines or wrinkles sun spots that you get to choose your own serum and build it and just relax alright guys so like I said these face masks come with 25 pieces and I got the sort of time there's two kinds there that i saw one was both of these are made with bamboo fibers but one of them contained charcoal and the others were just playing the bamboo so I got the assorted pack that comes with half charcoal half bamboo I don't always need that purification that charcoal give you so i thought some of them i would use for purification and some of them i would use just for hydration alright so as you can see they're all individually packed in their own little bubble which is super cool i'm assuming you just add the serum or lotion right into this little tub and it will swell up or grow like one of those little dinosaurs they add water to i'm so excited to try these out alright so the instructions are pretty simple it just says to remove the plastic backing and add your favorite moisturizer stamp or toner its unique straight in there and it will expand into a full-size mask leave on for 5 to 15 minutes remove and pat dry this is a side note i said that in my last face mask video at 10 to 15 minutes make sure you peel the mask off even if it's not fully dry because as soon as the mask starts to dry or becomes dry it pulls moisture back out of your skin totally counterproductive ok so because i don't have any fit or pimples right now I'm not going to the charcoal 1 i'm going to use just be plain white a bamboo mask I don't want to risk pulling out anything that you can already see I don't want to encourage any bit so white just moisture I think it will be alright let's jump right into this fun experiment with my top three skincare products so I'm going to totally customize my own face mask first i'm going to add Misha time revolution the first treatment essence this is not only going to help work as a toner for my skin but it's going to help moisturize at the same time as well I'm going to be adding another Misha product the time revolution night repair ampule if you haven't heard of this product before I will have it linked down below as well as all the products i'm talking about today but this is a Holy Grail item if you haven't seen my tent Korean skincare routine i'll link that down below as well this annual is full of my aside and tons of revitalizing and rejuvenating ingredients to help younger clear skin and certainly I'm going to be adding a drop of pure hyaluronic acid and this is by timeless guys it is super inexpensive it's just a pure basic hyaluronic acid as I'm sure you're all aware hyaluronic acid is an amazing skincare ingredient it can absorb thousands of times of its own weight in water when it gets absorbed into the skin that hangs onto that water and helps you really retain the moisture so with the combination of the three amazing ingredients that we are going to create my own perfect customizable sheet Basque now I'm going to change camera angles just what I add all of the ingredients to the pod so we can really see up close if the mask expand or swelled and so excited about only you right back here are going to our I just killed the top often be compressed to face mask we're going to go ahead and have a couple of drops of the first treatment instance first and see what happens we give them a nice good soaking whoa it's starting to grow already can advise you guys see this ok that was just a couple of drops and it totally started well already so now i'm going in with my mesa night repair ampule soak that in there doesn't seem to be getting any bigger going to add a bit more of the first treatment essence of the liquid if it goes keeps growing just going to go ahead and add a couple of drops of hyaluronic acid as well now we wait and see there was no this is a way better angle you guys can see that it has grown more than double in size but it looks like it stopped now just gonna let this sit for a couple more minutes and pop back on the other camera ok so it's been about five minutes as I last spoke to the mask as you can see it didn't grow any more than it did in those first few seconds even see disappearance has sent down to the bottom but there is a lot of the mask that looks like there's nothing in it so we'll open it up and take a look alright so my first impression right off the bat is that it is not merely saturated enough with product i thought that I used more than enough i used to both six drops altogether i don't know how many more drops you would want to use on one sheet mask but it definitely isn't wet it's not really sticking to the face in certain areas it definitely is sticky I can see this being great for if you have trouble area like it's just a patch here there that you could kind of cut this up and soak areas that you need to fix on your face anything like so you have some fine lines maybe blemishes on your forehead maybe you just want to target that area but if you plan on doing the whole face it is going to take a lot of product I'm actually so disappointed in this mask that i'm not even going to wait 10 minutes to take it off I'm going to take it off right now ok so in theory i totally get how this mask would work if you have more than enough skin care product to really soak that mask down I just want to go ahead and use tender off the serum that's almost a week's worth of serum on one mask but like i said if you have trouble areas or needed spa treatment this would be the perfect solution for you but for now i'm gonna stick to the pre-soaked sheet masks that already common dripping in serum that we're not wasting lay out the whole idea of having a compressed mask seems super cool and really easy and convenient especially for traveling but at this point I feel like you have to bring a gallon of serum along with you to fill it up so just like that was another face mask fail if you have any tips or tricks for compressed sheet masks and how to maximize them and leave them in the comments down below because I'm dying to know if you like this video don't forget to give it a thumbs up I've got some wicked cool videos coming up for you guys in the future I can't wait for you to see them but until then you can keep up with me on instagram snapchat and Twitter until next time guys see that that

Make a No-Sew Kids’ Tent in Under 1 Hour

hey remodel Alex welcome back to our DIY Channel we love creating magical memories for our kids like our bunk bed tutorials check out the link above and we love easy weekend projects and today’s project from pilita at the learner observer combines these two perfectly build your kids an easy play tent from two dowels to one by twos and an old bed sheet and then set their imaginations to work be sure to check out more from Phyllida on her channel and site links below and don’t forget to click Subscribe while you’re here so you don’t miss any of our new tutorials start by cutting two eight-foot one by two boards in half so you have four pieces most hardware stores will make these cuts for you sand the edges as needed and then drill a hole the same size as your dowels about one inch in from each end of the cut piece before assembling the tent get the fabric canopy ready by modifying an old sheet you could use a piece of cut fabric but old sheets are free and already hand so that’s a nice shortcut to save some time if you’re using a clean sheet like Solita cut it to 48 inches wide along the length of the sheet you’ll use the wider top hem to save some sewing and then create a pocket for the dowel at the other end of the sheet by folding it under and sewing or using hem tape like the deleted it trim a small piece of the hem from the opposite end so you can slide a dowel in the existing hem now you’re ready to start assembling it’s just that easy line up the holes and the 1 by 2 pieces and insert the dowels to form two triangles you might need a partner to help you with this since the tent is flimsy at this stage that’s basically it if you’ll be using the tent on the smooth floor you’ll probably need to add additional support along the lower edge of the triangle like deleted it to the tent slide don’t slide enjoy your new tent and tell us in the comments below what fun projects have you made for your kids lately we’d love to see some links don’t forget to check out our bunk bed Playhouse tutorial it really is an awesome project see you later and please help us by giving this video a thumbs up thanks bye

How to Dye Fabric: Rit All-Purpose Dye

With rit all-purpose Dye you can dye fabrics containing natural fibers like Cotton linen wool or silk and also Rayon and Nylon I’m going to dye samples of a bunch of different fabrics and see what happens. Pre-Wash the fabric to remove any finishes, so the dye will absorb better. Use enough water so the fabric can move around freely The hotter the water the better, so use really hot tap water or heat the water until it’s almost boiling. From here you can use the stove top method where you keep the dye bath on a low simmer throughout which will get the darkest richest colors or you can dye in a container or a stainless steel sink. I’m dyeing the samples in two batches because some of the fabric like salt added and some likes vinegar instead.

Shake the Dye well and add it to the water. as a general guideline for every pound of fabric use half a bottle of liquid dye or one package of powdered dye in three gallons of water To get dark or saturated colors double the amount of dye. I’m using half a cup and each to get a very saturated purple Add salt to the dye bath for Cotton linen and Rayon fabrics or add vinegar for silk wool and Nylon fabrics I’m adding about half a cup of each, but add more for larger projects Stir well Put the wet fabric in the dye bath. In the salt dye bath, I’m putting in bleached and unbleached Muslin 100% Cotton broadcloth and two different poly cotton blends Natural canvas Cotton Jersey Scrim Chintz Irish Linen Rayon Challis Natural burlap white Sultana Burlap and Polyester Gabardine In the Vinegar Dye bath, I’m putting in silk Chiffon silk Organza silk habutae silk Shantung 100% wool felt Rayon Wool Blend felt coated Nylon Oxford fabric Nylon stretch lace Nylon Crystal Organza and Nylon Glitz Sequins Stir continuously for anywhere between 15 minutes to an hour Take it out sooner for lighter colors or leave it in longer for Darker colors Make sure the dye is getting to all parts of the fabric.

So it won’t be splotchy here’s a couple tips for Dyeing: Wear gloves whenever handling the Dye and cover any surfaces that need protection before starting Dryclean only and fabrics that can’t withstand heat shouldn’t be dyed, but if you want to try test out a small piece first Keep in mind that most clothing is made of polyester thread which won’t die with rit all-purpose die Dyeing white fabrics has the best results you can dye other colors, but the original color may affect the outcome You can use rich color remover first to get rid of as much color as possible Remove the fabric from the dye bath when it reaches your desired color keep in mind Fabric looks Darker when wet We suggest using Rit Colorstay fixative before rinsing to increase color retention and reduce bleeding For small projects you can spray the fixative directly on the fabric until saturated or for larger items mix it in a water bath According to the instructions on the bottle.

Let it sit for 20 minutes Rinse the Fabric with warm water, then cooler water until it runs clear And finally hand wash or machine wash with warm water and air dry or tumble dry with an old towel. .

How To Build A Wooden Desk Lamp | DIY Project

Today I’m going to show you how to make this gorgeous looking wooden desk lamp using simple hand tools. For material I used two solid wood boards, one board 3 centimeters wide and thick, and another board 1 centimeter wide and thick. To create the lampshade, I used a piece of paper and the linen fabric. I also need a light bulb, a socket, and a cord. So, let’s get started! First, I marked all those dimensions needed for the lamp base. Then I cut the board using a handsaw. You can find the exact dimensions down in the video description.

Next, I’m sanding the edges of the pieces that I’ve cut to make them even, so it would be easier to work with the glue. To get the desired shape, I glued all the pieces of the wood together using a wood glue, a square ruler, and some clamps. You need a lot of patience, because you can’t glue all at once, but it’s definitely worth the time. Before gluing the last piece of wood I marked the center point of the lampshade and drilled a hole for the cord 4.5 centimeters deep using 6 millimeter bit. I extended the hole from the backside of the same piece of wood at a 45 degree angle, so it would be much easier for the cord to pass through. Then I glued up this last piece of the lamp base. Now let’s move on to the lampshade frame.

I marked the dimensions of the second board. I made a cuboid frame 20 centimeters high and 15 centimeters wide. So, I cut four pieces 12 centimeters long and eight pieces 13 centimeters long. The last and most important piece of wood is the frame support with size 5 by 13 centimeters. I used a 30 millimeter bit to countersink a hole 1 centimeter deep. then I used six millimeter bit to drill a hole all the way through, so that it perfectly matched the center of the base. The next step is building the cuboid frame. I glued all the pieces together and used square ruler along with the clamps to make a perfect right angle. To make everything nice and level, I’m going to hit with 120 grit sandpaper which should make a quick work of all the unevenness. then I finished it off with a spray paint. I painted both the base and the frame with the chocolate brown spray paint, because I wanted to create more contrast between them and the lampshade. I applied two coats of spray paint and left it to dry out.

After that, I moved on to making the lampshade. I used a paper roll and cut 62 by 21 centimeters of it. I also cut the linen fabric 63 by 23 centimeters, so that I could easily glue it to the paper, and fold the edges to get nice and smooth look. It took me some time until I finished gluing the fabric to the paper, because I wanted to make sure everything was lined up. I decided to use a wood glue and it actually turned out quite well. The glue wasn’t drying too fast, so I had some time to adjust the fabric to the paper with a ruler. I glued up the lampshade to the frame. It is very important to do this carefully, one side at a time, because you need to align the edges of the frame with the edges of the shade. I folded the fabric on the top of the frame to get the desired look, but you can skip this step simply by cutting the paper 20 centimeters wide at the beginning now. I can finally put all the pieces together. I’m mixing up some 5 min epoxy to stick the socket. I made sure everything was lined up, and then used wood glue to stick the lampshade to the base.

I held it with finger pressure for only a few minutes until the glue started to harden. I suggest you use LED light bulb, because it produces a very small insignificant amount of heat. This is the final result, and I ended up really liking it. Thank you so much for watching, and if you enjoyed this video hit the like button, and also subscribe to my channel if you want more DIY projects like this every week. .

Homemade Spring Rolls

Hey everyone its Barry here welcome to my virgin kitchen I hope you are well today we’re gonna be making our very own homemade spring rolls we’re gonna fry them and we’re also gonna bake them if you know already this is part of my homemade Chinese takeaway playlist and actually this is the last one at the moment in this playlist because I don’t want to be known as the Chinese takeaway guy but we will come back to it and do another batch the actual next block of recipes we’re going to do is heavily requested vegan I’m not a vegan I’m excited about that but regards to this playlist if you’ve missed any others we’ve done loads of recipes all right on the playlist so be sure to have a Bharath on get some inspiration check out the full playlist and of course keep serving me your pictures I don’t never know I have some pretty exciting news to share soon keep an eye on my social media but it does involve you yes I’ve done a little bit of prep we’re going for pork spring rolls today I think that she realized that a spring roll and an egg roll I thought they were the same this is a different thing but actually different things egg roll actually has ech heck egg in the wrap alright so I’m using pork meat today you could use any meat you like chicken beef lamb whatever or keep it vegetarian but we have to cook whatever meat we’re using first of all I’ve just chopped that fairly fine and go small if you want you could probably get away with using mince if you want we’ve got some bamboo that I got from a tin drained off and just sliced thin some spring onions and these are some carrots carrots carrots that I’ve julienned so I didn’t slice them thinly using my obsessive chef chopping board that I use on the last gadget video oh no no I’ve got this other gadget this julienne peeler which you just run along like this and then you just get these nice fine shreds of carrot of course you can chop it fine if you want but I saved a lot of time last but not least are these mushrooms these are just some shiitake mushrooms I’ve soaked in hot water for 20 minutes drained off they’re really fragrant and all I’m gonna do is just chop them up really roughly like I’m not even gonna do it into any sort of equal amounts just like rough chunks what I mean by rough chunks is it doesn’t have to be symmetrical I’m just literally just chopping up so maybe don’t want it too big so that it’s gonna bulge out of a spring roll but just when it’s sort of nice and fine like this we’re gonna fry this off now super flavor okay walk down first we’re gonna use this twice once to cook the meat and any other to get the spring rolls frying it’s gonna add some ground nut oil I’m going to need a bit more of that to fry in or you can use vegetable oil later gonna push the pork in the pan is not completely warm yet but I don’t want I’m gonna warm it up with it or you can’t get it smoking hot if you prefer I just want to get my mushrooms in and when I’m filming I want to be a bit safer so the pork and then those chopped mushrooms a bit of carrot try to get in them but waiting it in it just frying this through then been a couple of minutes already so you can see the porks turn white from the outside but the inside some of the bigger pieces will still be pink make sure you really give it a good cook through and you can sort of use your spatula if you want to cut it in half a big piece of that and make sure there’s no pink but you know a good 5 minutes should definitely do it I’m now gonna add in some Chinese five-spice good tablespoon of that and some soy sauce about a teaspoon of that but we can change all this later we can tweak it and stuff like that mix that through and that will do for the moment so I’ll just take it off the heat let it cool down that’s it transfer the cooked mixture to a large mixing bowl and clean out your wok all right we’re gonna need it for frying it’s some holidays and the kids have just come back from morn out somewhere so they might get involved or they might just sit in one dough or they might watch the telly what mine is this is smelling and looking good carrots go in and my kids come in spring onions alright kids yeah alright spring onions alright spring rolls yeah and then the strips of bamboo go in there as well which look a little bit like pineapple does that I like pineapple to you clay she said yeah if you can hear that yeah also gonna add in a handful of bean sprouts I’ve never had so many bean sprouts in the kitchen since doing these Chinese recipes we were making loads is good I mentioned it the other day it’s been having a lot of ginger as well this is some fresh ginger which smells awesome I’m just gonna grate it about a heaped teaspoon I a little bit more soy sauce about a teaspoon or so so pepper and then we’re just gonna give this a mix together and they’re filling even though it’s a little warm still that’s fine because it will actually help to wilt some of these vegetables down a little bit we just want to coat it mingle it because this will essentially be our filling not only that but the five-spice and the soy inside the pork and the mushrooms is just coating these other ingredients as well it’s working the gaps like a fusion a little medley so right here is some filo pastry these are sheets I’ve actually got two on top of each other because I was told that’s quite good to add strength to it if you can’t get spring roll pastry in your supermarket like I couldn’t I want to try and make this as common to everyone so rather than ordering out online or ever or go into a specialist shop if they don’t stop it apparently filo pastry is almost just as good so I’m gonna spoon the fill in on my oven to preheat you can hear that in the background put it into like a a log shape and then you’re gonna lift it forward so that it encases it in like so then you’re gonna bring this side over and then this side over so this is two parts corn flour one part water and I’m just brushing it onto the pastry lightly to act as a sort of glue and it will help to seal it when we press it down hopefully roll it towards it right now so one and then to sitting it on the seal like so that is the first ever spring roll I’ve made we’re gonna leave it at sit on the seal so it dries and holds that together once we fry it slush bake it and I’m gonna repeat that a couple more times I’ve got my oil in the wok heating up in the background but this is gonna be our baked version so I’ve got a little bit extra ground up over there and I’m just gonna brush it all over our wrapper dugu we’ll do the other side too all right my oven is preheated to 180c or 160 C fan and it’s gonna go in there for about 20-25 minutes do you want to try one of my spring roll was in a minute all right the only other option guys is frying it so we’re just getting this nice and warm I’ve got a bit of bread there which I’ll chuck in and once it fries and goes golden brown after 10-15 seconds I’ll know that that groundnut oil is hot enough and you have one is in the oven all right so this is just a piece of bread that I’ve dropped in and it’s starting to fry pretty much immediately so we can put a spring roll in I’ve just turned it over I’ve got a nice light golden color on it already just really wanting it to firm up crisp gently but not be too well-done all right just turn this over and get that nice even golden color on both sides oh my gosh haha kitchen towel just to let that oil cool down absorb some of the fat I am loving that smells amazing we’re really interested to see how the baked one compares to this but I’ve got one more wonderful eye and I’ma bring it together and compare it oh these are naughty all right there we go that is our fried one I’m gonna get the other one from the oven and in comes the baked one so you can see the difference in color it’s actually not that much it’s obviously less of a fried smell going on but visually quite impressed by that I think this one’s gonna be a bit more crunchy though so um a slice it in half all right so this is the baked one oh my gosh that is still like a proper spring roll look at the feeling that is wedged now to be fair to the fried one that has been sat there for five minutes because the baits did take half an hour but yeah it’s a bit softer it was crispy when it came out look at that loaded filling oh my gosh ready mrs.

B this is the fried one mmm oh is that close it’s very nice that felt a lot more like proper authentic that one this is the bait one hmm mm-hmm it is hot in the middle girls come out the oven that was really not there’s not much they were different I think that I think that fried one would have been as crunchy if we’d have eaten it straight away yeah yeah it took a little bit longer to have extra five minutes on the baking time just to get that most brownness on there just to make it a little bit more even looking the fried ones got that but you said that authentic yeah it feels a bit warm I like this this is good yeah it’s got a nice crunch on it as a healthier alternative so definitely worth the try I know it’s deleting it so there we go if you wanna check out the rest of the day all right recipes in the Chinese playlist keep your requests coming so we’ll come back to and add more recipes to it but any vegan recipes do let me know down below and I’ll get cracking on those so see you later bye

DIY Plywood – Cali Bamboo Profiles 3 MakerPlace Woodworkers

It comes as no surprise that Cali Bamboo’s plywood is ideal for creating basically any product that is traditionally made out of wood. Now recently, we’ve learned that several of our bamboo plywood customers make their creations at somewhere called Maker Place. Which lead us to wonder what is Maker Place? Maker Place operates pretty much like a 24 Hour Fitness or your typical gym model where it’s a membership a monthly membership. We also have yearly memberships.

We started this back in December of last year just as a place where people have a workshop and have access to big tools that they normally wouldn’t have access to. Otherwise, the overhead cost to get these things developed would be too much and people would never be able to see it through. Hi, I’m Alex, the creator of the bamboo lunch box. It’s a project me and my friend came up because of our love of sustainability and lunch. Everybody has great memories of lunch and recess in school and they always remember their lunch box. And everybody had cool characters and good memories of it, so we kinda took the Japanese style Bento box and American style lunch box. Mashed it together and we’re hopefully coming out with awesome different creations with limited edition art series at My name’s Mike Lucero. I developed the Backsedator about twelve years ago, thirteen years ago. And what it is is an acupressure board, that’s basically a natural pain reliever, muscle relaxer and muscle balancer all in one. This is the AccuHook, and what it really is is the back board hits up to a certain point.

The AccuHook works from that point on, so it’s really designed to work from your cervical region, ok up your spine, up to the base of your skull. And then back out from your trapezius, back on up through the cervical region of the neck. So it goes off the same thing Meridian Line therapy and pressure point application. This is what we call The Cash Box. It’s a bamboo ipowered point of sale built with all natural materials and earth friendly bamboo, earth friendly leather. It uses the iPad. It’s got a thermal printer built into it. It’s got a cash drawer built into it. And it’s got this really nifty mechanism where the cashier can ring up the order, swipe the customer’s credit card, send the iPad over to the customer, the screen rotates around, they use their finger to sign. We discovered Cali Bamboo and it kind of opened our eyes to a whole other world. And with these bamboo plywoods we can treat this bamboo as if it was regular old plywood, and cut it and stain it and oil it, and do whatever we were going to do to wood to this bamboo.

And you get these really amazing lustrous finishes. It’s unique, it’s different, and it allows you to market the product on the whole eco side of the world. At Maker Place I have access to all kinds of equipment that I wouldn’t normally have, and allows me to do really cool creative stuff that I would only be able to dream of without Maker Place.


What Kind of Finish Should You Use? | WOOD FINISHING BASICS

Grab yourself a good quality brush and prepare to — Microjig, maker of the Gripper. Work safer. Work smarter. — You’ll probably want to protect most of your projects you make with a finish. But applying a wood finish doesn’t have to be complicated. Let’s look at the basics to make things even easier on you. Some projects may not require any finish at all. For example there’s no huge benefit to applying a finish to shop projects.

A storage or tool cabinets or tables or work benches. Of course if you have a lot of visitors to your shop and you’d like to show off a beautiful workspace, then by all means, spruce up your shop fixtures. I like to paint some of my shop cabinets because the bright colors just make me happy and brighten up my mood. Speaking of which, I believe paint is the strongest, most durable, most practical, easiest to apply, finish there is. If it’s long-term durability you want, go with paint. I mean really, we use paint on our houses for a reason, because they’re subjected to all kinds of harsh weather conditions. Plus the choice of colors is unlimited. But of course the main drawback to paint is that it hides the wood and from my own experience on this show, that tends to make some people cranky.

There are lots of great-looking examples of painted furniture, and it really shouldn’t be discounted as an option. But for this video I’m only going to focus on clear protective topcoat. There are two main reasons to apply finish to wood projects. First, wood finishes help to protect wood from scratches, moisture damage, spills, stains, and UV damage from sunlight. Secondly, a finish will make wood look great. It’s very rewarding to watch the color and grain pop as soon as you apply a finish. Plus a nicely finished piece is very tactile and it just feels nice no matter what type of finish you use. It’s important to sand your project first. I usually start with a 120 grit sandpaper and then move up to a 220 grit sandpaper and I stop there. There’s rarely any reason to sand to any finer grit because the smooth feel of your surfaces will come from the finish that you apply after sanding. Make sure you remove all of the sawdust from your project. Dust particles are the bane of a good finish. I like to vacuum off the surfaces then wipe them off with a tack cloth then with a clean lint-free cloth like an old t-shirt.

I wipe everything down with mineral spirits or paint Center and this will also highlight any dents that are in the wood or any dried glue you may have missed. Plus it gives you a quick preview of what the wood will look like once it’s finished. For lots more information on sanding watch this basic video over here. If you go to a home center or hardware store it’s easy to be overwhelmed with choices. There are a lot of ways you could finish wood. There are entire books on the subject of finishing. In this video I’m only going to discuss a few of the most common finishes that hobbyists might want to use. There are two main kinds of finish. First, a layered finish. One that sticks to the surface of the wood, kind of like paint does. This includes polyurethane, lacquer, and other varnishes. And secondly, an oil finish, one that penetrates into the grain of the wood such as linseed oil or tung oil.

In general, a layered finish will offer a lot more protection to the wood, but it can look a little artificial or in some cases kind of plastic-y. Oil finishes on the other hand, are kind of earthier. The wood looks great and more natural but they don’t offer nearly as much protection. Polyurethane is probably the most popular finish today. The biggest drawback is that it can be very time consuming to apply. To get a good finish you need to apply at least three coats which realistically might take three days. Applying any finish with a brush is different than painting.

The goal is to avoid swiping back and forth and creating streaks or leaving behind air bubbles. It’s a good idea to pour your finish into a separate container to use rather than straight out of the can. This will help prevent contaminating your main supply. I like to start by conditioning my brush and dipping it in mineral spirits and soaking the bristles. Dip the brush into the finish all the way up to the ferrule and let it soak up as much as it can. Lightly press the tip against the can to remove any excess that might drip. A good quality brush should hold quite a bit of finish. Start at one edge of the wood and try to apply the finish in one long stroke along the entire length of the board, pressing down more and more on the brush as you get to the end, letting it release the finish the entire way.

Fill the brush up again and apply more slightly overlapping the first stroke. Mostly avoid brushing back and forth as if you were painting a fence. Use long steady strokes trying to let the finish flow as evenly as possible brush slowly and don’t stop to take a break until the entire surface is completely covered. If you find that you’ve missed a spot, skip it. Just leave it for the next coat. If you try to dab in a patch it can make it look worse. Also it’s a good idea to start with the edges and vertical surfaces of a project, then finish up with the top surface. Check the back of the can to see how much time you need to let it dry between coats. It could be 5 hours or more for an oil-based polyurethane and less time for water-based. Dry times will also differ based on temperature and humidity. Once each coat is dry it should be lightly sanded with 320 grit sandpaper to remove any dust nibs and help smooth the surface.

But don’t drive yourself crazy trying to get every inch perfectly sanded. In my experience, polyurethane will adhere just fine to the previous layer even without sanding. But sanding will give the finish a smoother feel. And make sure you remove all of the sanding dust before applying the next coat. Pay extra special care to applying the final coat to avoid brush marks, runs, and streaks. And use a good quality brush. You can buy oil or water-based poly. Both provide excellent protection to wood and each has its own advantages and disadvantages. Water-based poly is a lot easier to use. It has less odor and cleanup is easy with just soap and water. To clean up oil-based poly, you’ll need mineral spirits. Water-based poly dries a lot faster than oil-based poly but you’ll need to apply more coats. Usually three coats is fine for oil, but water-based poly will need four or even more coats. But really the biggest difference in the two types is how they look on wood.

I tend to prefer oil-based polyurethane because it gives the wood a warmer somewhat amber look that most people find very pleasing. Water-based poly is really clear sometimes people complain that it looks like a plastic coating on wood. Finally, there’s a third option called wipe-on poly which is just regular polyurethane that the manufacturer has thinned down with mineral spirits. You can actually just make your own if you like. It’s easy to apply, just pour some on a rag and wipe it on the wood. Wipe-on poly finish can look really great and sometimes even better than a brushed on finish. Of course you’ll probably need to add more coats of it for good results. If you’ve watched my show for any length of time you know that my favorite finish to use is a lacquer. It looks great and it dries incredibly fast.

With lacquer you can finish an entire project in just a few hours. Even faster for small projects. Almost all wood furniture that you might buy at a store is finished with lacquer. In industrial and professional production environments it’s always sprayed on with an HVLP sprayer. You can learn more about HVLP spraying here. Luckily there are two easier options available for hobbyists and weekened woodworkers. The first is brushing lacquer. Apply it using the exact same brushing procedure I described for polyurethane. The only change in technique is to brush a little faster and definitely, definitely don’t brush back and forth. Lacquer dries so quickly that it can gum up if you overwork it. Again, if you miss a spot don’t try to fix it, just get it in the next coat. If you can set up a backlight so that you can look across the surface as you apply the finish that helps out a lot.

The best part about lacquer is that you don’t need to sand it between coats. Rather than sitting on top of each other, each coat fuses into the one beneath it and this combination of fast drying and not having to sand allows you to build up lots of coats of lacquer in a very short time. You’ll need lacquer thinner to clean your brushes but I don’t clean the brushes thoroughly between coats. I like to just wrap the brush in a paper towel or rag moistened with lacquer thinner and just put it in a plastic bag.

I like to lightly sand the surface before applying the final coat of lacquer this will knock down any little dust nibs or drips and make the top coat very smooth. Without question, lacquer from a spray can is my go-to finish. It’s easy to apply, just spray it on in a back-and-forth motion being careful not to get too close or too slow where it can develop drips or runs. For small projects spray lacquer is an absolutely fantastic finish. You don’t need any brushes or lacquer thinner. To learn more about my technique for getting a great spray lacquer finish, watch this video over here. After the lacquer has fully cured say 24 hours or so, I like to smooth out the topcoat. To me this is what separates a good finish from a great finish. One that is very tactile and feels smooth without any dust nibs or other imperfections.

I almost always use gloss lacquer to get an easy satin finish. From that I lightly sand the surface with Faurot steel wool or a gray synthetic scrubbing pad. If you want you can actually rub that finish to a super high-gloss finish using finer and finer sandpaper and pumice. But that’s a topic for another video. I usually limit it to just that one smoothing because I like the look and feel of a satin finish. Of course you can buy satin lacquer but you’ll still need to rub down that final coat if you want it to have that great tactile feel. Gloss lacquer is just more versatile. Lacquer can be more expensive than other finishes, especially the spray cans. Secondly, lacquer has a very strong order that can be really harmful to breathe so use a respirator rated for organic vapors and solvent filtering. Lastly, some people complain about the look of lacquered finishes saying they look too artificial. I don’t share that opinion at all and I love the look of lacquered pieces. When you want a beautiful finish that looks absolutely gorgeous and really shows off the wood, an oil finish is a great option, plus it’s really the easiest finish to apply.

But like I mentioned earlier, an oil finish doesn’t offer much protection to wood it would not be a good choice say for a dining table or a desk that’s subjected to a lot of use. But an oil finish can be a good option for decorative pieces say picture frames or jewelry boxes. Oil finishes are arguably the most natural looking, close to the wood, earthy way to finish wood. There are basically two types of oil finishes Tung oil and Linseed oil. They both penetrate into the wood unlike lacquer or polyurethane that builds up on top of the wood. Applying either one is easy you just pour some on a rag or directly on the wood surface and wipe it in.

Let it sit for five to ten minutes then wipe it off. If I’m using Linseed oil I’d like to let it dry a couple of hours and then lightly sand the surface and apply a second coat. I’ve never seen any benefit to applying any more coats than two. Let it dry overnight and you’re good to go. Tung oil on the other hand can take days. Use the same wipe on wipe off procedure as a linseed oil but let it dry 24 hours before sanding it and applying the next coat.

Usually you’ll need to apply four or five coats. The benefit to Tung oil is that it offers more water resistance than linseed oil so it might be a good choice for say an end table that doesn’t get a whole lot of use. But if water resistance is your main concern why bother with an oil finish at all? Just use poly or lacquer. A third alternative that I consider an oil finish is Danish oil and it it’s actually a blend of polyurethane and Tung or linseed oil. I think it tries to be the best of both worlds in for the most part it does a pretty good job. But as you might expect it doesn’t look quite as natural as a pure oil finish and it doesn’t offer the protection of a layered finish.

In fact, a lot of people apply a coat of straight polyurethane on top of the Danish oil for added protection. For the most part finishing doesn’t have to be a real chore and for small projects you can’t go wrong with the simplicity of spray lacquer. Well there are lots of other types of finishes such as shellac and finishing wax and there are tons of different techniques for finishing wood. I hope this video has been helpful and is enough to get you started. Please be sure to subscribe to Woodworking for Mere Mortals and share this video if you found it useful. Thanks for watching everybody! I’ll see you next time. .

DIY – Roll Up Blinds, how-to

We are here in our tiny outdoor kitchen in Hong Kong. And we would like to have some bamboo blinds. So I thought, why not make them ourselves, since we made the complete kitchen ourselves. This is kind of how our blind will look like. We have 5 eyes at the top. We will attach a rope in one of the eyes and then bring it to the back, bring it to the front, to another eye, and then bring it all the way to the right, and out, ready to pull. Same for the right side, we attach a rope to the top, bring it to the back, and to the front, into an eye and to the last eye, out, also ready to pull.

So when it’s rolled up it will look something like this. What we will use is a bamboo mat. Large enough to fit the window. Some cable ties. A big piece of rope. Some screw eyes. A wooden beam, and a wooden pole, or a plastic pole in my case. First I start with cutting the bamboo mat. Make it a bit taller then your window frame. Because we need some extra to cover the wooden beam and the pole. I place the beam on the top and cover it with the bamboo mat. Then I make some holes for the cable ties and tie it together. When the beam is attached to the mat, I will turn the mat around and go to the other side, to attach the pole.

Same way with the holes and the cable ties. Make sure you cut them tight, so it won’t be a problem when rolling the blind. Ok now it’s time for the eye screws. Together we will place 5 of them. first I use a normal screw to pre screw the hole, so it will be more easy to put the eye screw in there. When the 5 eyes are attached to the beam, we are ready to apply the rope. Attach the rope to the top eye and then go all the way to the back and come back to the front and get your rope through the eye on top, and then bring it to the right, and get it through the right eye, and the left side is finished. Then same for the right side, all the way to the back, to the front, and through the top eye and to the most right eye. And that’s it.

Now the blind is ready, the only thing I have to do is to attach it. Thank you for watching. If you like my videos, please subscribe. .

Garden Trellis – How to Make the Best Supports for Climbing Vegetables

Hello! Training naturally climbing vegetables up supports yields rich rewards. By lifting vegetables off the ground and up towards the sun, you can enjoy bigger harvests from a relatively small patch of ground. Climbing vegetables are easier to pick, they require less weeding, and they can provide a leafy backdrop or windbreak for your plot. As well as many off-the-shelf supports such as arbors, arches and pergolas, there are plenty of homespun alternatives that will save you money. A trip to any home improvement store will supply you with all you need to inexpensively make your own supports in no time at all. Cloaked in lush foliage, your homemade supports will become a handsome and productive centerpiece to your garden. The very simplest supports include sturdy stakes, poles, and trusty bamboo canes.

Pushed securely into the ground at the base of plants, they offer an immediate vertical hook for vining vegetables to grip hold of. Some young plants may at first need tying in to their supports to encourage growth up in the right direction. Canes or poles can be arranged in traditional rows with a horizontal cane linking the tops to create a rigid structure. Tie in the canes where they cross with string, twine or wire. Alternatively, create an attractive wigwam or tepee. Space 4-8 canes or poles at equal intervals around a circle marked out in the ground.

A traditional trash can lid can be used as a template. Tie the canes together about a foot (30cm) from the top using string, strips of cloth or wire. Bamboo and willow wigwams are perfect for climbing peas and beans, while taller, sturdier wigwams made of thicker poles are recommended for heavier climbers such as squashes and melons. Poles can also be arranged in a square layout. Wind round parallel rows of string between the poles if additional support is needed.

Natural poles, such as those made from hazel or willow, give a lovely rustic look. Trellises are an easy and flexible way to provide instant support for your vertically vining vegetables. Trellis panels can be screwed to walls and fences or left freestanding by attaching to upright posts. Use them for growing beans, peas, squashes and more. For a contemporary look, secure sheets of thick-gauge galvanised wire mesh between two frames made from wooden batons. Finish with a coat of paint. Make your own mini-trellis by securely trying lengths of cane together using wire or string – just the job for individual squash or marrow plants. Many of these supports can be included in your garden planning. Our online Garden Planner incorporates a selection of structures from arches and arbors to willow wigwams. To drop one onto your plan, simply click once to select, move the mouse to where you want to position it, then click and drag to place.

The corner handles can be used to expand the structure to the correct area. Fancy a go at making your own bean frame? This easy-to-make frame offers the ultimate solution, with bamboo canes positioned in such a way that the pods hang outwards away from the frame, making them much easier to spot and pick. The stems are also less likely to grow into a thick, tangled mess. To make the bean frame you’ll need the following materials and tools: For the top of the frame, two short lengths of 2×2 inch (50x50mm) timber at 32 inch (80cm) long.

Also, two medium lengths of 1×2 inch (20x 50mm) timber at 5ft (150cm) long. For the uprights of the frame, use two lengths of 2×2 inch (50x50mm) timber at a length of 7ft 4in (220cm). To screw the timber together you’ll need two 4in (100mm) long screws, four 2.5in (60mm) long screws and a screwdriver. You’ll also need a drill with drill bit, sandpaper, a pencil, measuring tape or tape measure, and 12 or 14 bamboo canes that are at least 7ft (2m) long.

Plus some garden wire or string to tie them onto the frame. this list here summarizes everything you’ll need for the job. Start by sanding down any rough edges to the timber using the sandpaper. Now put together the top of the frame using the short and medium length sections. To prevent the wood from spitting, drill pilot holes 1in (25mm) in from both ends of the two medium length sections. Screw these to the ends of the short lengths using the 2.5in (60mm) screws. The top is now ready to screw to the long uprights.

Measure and mark halfway along the two shorter sides of the top section. Drill pilot holes through these two points. Screw the top section of your frame to the uprights using the two 4in (100mm) screws. Now position the frame. Dig two holes to accommodate the uprights, then lift the frame into position. The holes should be at least a foot (30cm) deep. Backfill the holes, then firm in with your boot to get a good, tight finish. Positioning and lifting the frame is a lot easier with an extra pair of helping hands! The frame is now ready for the bamboo canes.

Set the canes at equal distances along both sides of the frame. Push them into the ground so that they line up evenly along the top of the frame. Tie them in with wire, twine or string. The canes will give further rigidity to the bean frame. Now plant your beans. It won’t take long for the stems to latch onto the canes and pull themselves up. In a few months you’ll be picking pods aplenty! Climbing vegetables are simply a must for any gardener looking to pack more into their plot. Give them the support they need and they’ll thrive, offering you a vertical wall of vegetables to be proud of. If you’ve got any ideas for home-made supports, please do share them by dropping us a comment below, and why not subscribe for more great gardening advice and know-how. .

How to Build a Pergola Attached to Your House | Mitre 10 Easy As

A pergola that’s attached to your house can be a great addition it’s a good way to create a useful sheltered outdoor area and give you shade from the Sun it’ll also add to the visual appeal of your house with a bit of initial planning and prep building one yourself isn’t as hard as what you might think I’ll take you through the job step-by-step so you can do it yourself before you start there are a few important things that you need to know while you don’t actually need a building permit you will have to adhere to the building regulations so you’ll need to get a licensed building practitioner or LBP to help design it for you this will help you make sure that you’re doing it right and that you’re using the correct materials when designing the structure with your LBP there are a few things you should just keep in mind you want to make sure it’s high enough so the beam doesn’t obscure your view from inside you want to build it so it’s keeping with the overall style of your house and if you think you might want to put a roof on your pergola then it’ll need to be under 20 square meters and you’ll want to design it with a fall so that water can run off it right here’s the plan I’ve had drawn up by my LBP it’s got all the measurements I need and it tells me exactly what materials I need to order so all you need to do is take this into might of ten and the guys in the drive through will help you out with selecting the right materials and a trailer or delivery if you need now as per our plan our first post is going to be face fixed to the outside of the house here and it’s going to be inline with a corner now our second post will be on the outside of these steps and our third post there’s going to be right on the outside in line with the corner of the house so the first thing I need to do is get a parallel line from the house to the corner and put that mark down here so I know exactly where this post is going right so we’re just going to but the tape tied up against that weather border under the doorstep and we’ve got 2142 our quarter box I’m going to take that twenty-one woody measure that off their house for our end post okay there’s our 21:40 that’s to the outside of the post now if you’re in the situation where your pergola came to the end of your deck you could just put your post on the outside so you’re just digging straight into the earth but in this situation obviously we’ve got to remove a few dicking boards so we can dig a hole underneath the deck now this is just the rough guide at the stage where our post is going to be situated I will run a string line down the side of the house so I can get that pin pointed exactly correct so the next thing we need to do is remove some of the sticking board so we can actually start digging the hole where our post is going to go now a great little tool for pulling out the nails of these little dog bars absolutely brilliant take care when you’re removing your decking boards because you could reuse them these ones are badly split so I’ll be replacing them okay so I’m going to mark my 21 40 back on our joist here now I still need to get exact position this way and line with the house but I still know that my post hole is going to be about here so what I can do is start digging that hole and wind my post goes in or getting an exact position of it with a string line a little bit later on down the track now I’ve dug our hole nice and deep as per the specifications on the plan and also I’ll put a block of concrete on the bottom of here just so I’ve got nice and solid bearing for our posts to sit on now I’ve also run a string line down the side of the house parallel with the house I’ve run a string line a hundred millimetres from the side of the house this avoids any uneven surfaces on the side of the house that means that the distance from the string line to the corner is 63 millimeters now I want to be sixty three millimeters away from the line that’s up to the corner of our house so as you can see 63 millimeters that’s where our post is going to sit so we’ve got a joist in the way there’s nothing I can do about that I’m just going to clamp my post to the side of the Joyce and later on down the track I’ll show you how we compensate for that so now is the time put an outpost brace it up and put some concrete in now I’m just going to use this little clamp to hold that in position now I’ve just lined up my post without mark on our joist all I need to do now is plumb the post up and put a brace down now these posts that I am using are glue laminated and the h5 treated that way it’s not going to twist of water the best type of posts you can possibly use when you’re building up gola or a veranda I’ll just pull that clomp cool now that’s looking pretty good all I’ve got to do now is fix the end of my brace and then put some concrete in the hole okay just before I throw them a concrete in I want to get rid of my clamp to get that out of the way so I’m just going to screw off the post to our joist that’s going to be permanent from now on now I’ve got a pretty long post so what I want to do is just throw another support going back the other way and let’s just make sure that’s nice and plump cramp it off and then we’re good for our concrete you need to have at least 600 millimeters deep of concrete to secure your post rightio that’s looking pretty good now all I got to do is exactly the same for the other post let it sit for 24 hours and then we’re good to go to determine the position of the middle post I’ve run a string line from the corner of the house to the corner post radio I’ve let my two posts set in concrete for 24 hours now I’ve got one more post to attach but I don’t actually want to fix that to the house at this point because I want to chop the post off at exactly the right height now to get that height I first have to establish exactly where our ribbon plate is going to be attached to the house as per the plan the bottom of the ribbon plate needs to be 26 80 millimetres from the dig okay now this is just an example of what our Reuben plate is going to look like it’s going to be attached to the face of the weather boards like this now I have a couple of Packers that I’m going to attach behind the ribbon plate that’s to allow for any water to run down if it ever should get in there now this is also an example of what our rebate is going to look like now the rebate is safe we can have our rough to sit it and then quite nice and tidy like that what I need to do next is get a length of our ribbon plate now as for the dimensions on the plan it says it’s 2682 the underside of my ribbon plate so what I’m going to do is just put a nail in the weather boards at that height then I can use this nail to hook the tape on to get the length of our ribbon plate okay so that’s 5753 right the next thing I need to do is just make a level line on our weather boards to indicate the exact location on the bottom of the ribbon plate okay the next thing I need to do is establish exactly where our studs are now to do that is a couple of things you want to look out for the main thing is exactly where our nailing is so you can sort of see a little bit of paint cracking on the weather board that there indicates exactly where our stutters so we want to be looking out for the old nail lines and then just above our mark we want to put the center of our stud okay now it is important that we locate exactly where all the studs are because these are going to be our solid fixing points for when we put our Coach screws through the ribbon plate into the house rightio the next thing I need to do is just measure out exactly where all those marks are and I’m just going to write it on the weather board all these marks will be hidden by a ribbon plate I’ve marked the measurements of all the studs on the weather boards now it’s time to transfer them to the ribbon plate three three nine eight four nine ten the plan shows seven rafters for this pergola that’s a total of six spaces between them the overall length of the ribbon plate is five seven five three millimeters I’ve divided that by six and that’s given me a measurement of nine hundred and fifty nine millimeters Center to Center so nine fifty-nine is from the center of one rafter to the center of the next which is what we’re going to mark out now so now we’re just going to mark out the thickness of our rafter onto our ribbon plate so my rafter is 42 millimeters thick so I just want to divide that by two so I go 1/2 on either side of the line so that’s 21 millimeters either side of the center will just square that off so that’s one side there’s the center and then we’ll just use it the actual thickness of our rafter and put that on there and we’re just going to rebate that out later so we’re just going to do the same for all of our marks righty-o now I’m just about ready to rebait out my Ribbon plate so I’ve set my saw blade to about ten millimeters so I’m going to take a 10 mil rebate out of my ribbon now just before I rebate out I’m just going to use the side of my square with the side of a circular saw that’ll help me and give a nice straight line to make sure I’m up against my marks nice and tight I’m cutting a series of fins into the timber which I then simply remove with a chisel right now this looking lovely now we just want to do exactly the same for all the others now the most conventional way of attaching our rafters to our ribbon plate is just the face fix like this now the reason I’ve decided to rebait out our ribbon plate it’s just going to give me a stronger joint it’s going to stop all our rafters from twisting and also if you’ll get any sort of moving whatsoever in the house or the pergola that all that would do is open that up now our rebate is going to hide any sort of movement whatsoever now regardless whether you face fix or your rebate out your ribbon plate we’re still going to have to have a mechanical fixing now what I mean by mechanical fixing is something like a joist hanger or a multi group bracket sitting on the side there now that’s going to hold that they’re absolutely fine no problem the only thing is it looks absolutely terrible so I’m going to eliminate that and I’ve decided to nail the 12k end strap on the back with my rebate errs and then once my raft is going all I’m going to do is fold that over and now that down and that gives me a really nice strong mechanical fixing now these are the marks where my studs are on the wall now as per my specs on the plan it says my coat screws have to be no more than a meter apart which works out pretty good here obviously I’m not going to choose that one that’s hard up against where my rough that’s going to go so what I’ll do is I’ll just square the stem and do a hole and the center of that one and the same on this one here now we’ll just do the same for all the others okay now I’m using a twelvemonth coat screw so I’m going to draw a 13 mil hole through our ribbon plate you’ll need a mate to help you position the ribbon plate next I’m pre drilling the coke screw holes this is a timber we’re the board house if yours is different just refer to your plane rightio the next thing we need to do is attach our peckers to the back of our ribbon plate so I like in this example I’ve got a 20 mil thick Packer that’s what council rigs state now I’ve made these 45 mil foot wide so what I’m going to do is cut up a whole lot of Packers about 20 mil thick by 45 wide and then I’m just going to pin them to the back of our ribbon plate and then I’m going to tip the ribbon plate back over then I’m going to drill all the way through with our 13 model home and take that ribbon up to the wall all in one piece with the Packers attached rightio all the holes are drilled through our peckers now it’s the big thing I’ve to take this up and attach it to the house now as part of council regulations I’m attention neoprene washer and behind our packer so it sandwiches up nice and tight create a watertight seal between the house and our ribbon plate now nail each stretch to the back of the ribbon plate centered on each rebate radio I’ve got my Packers attached to the back of the ribbon plate the neoprene washers on there ready to go a pre drilled a hole McCoach screws are sitting in there nice ready to go as well and I’ve also attached our strap so what I have to do is attach it to the wall now we’re just going to make sure that we’re going to follow our line the whole way we’ll just kind of start from one end and work our way to the end obviously you’re going to need a mate to give you a hand now a great little tip when you are putting these up as use an impact driver and I’ve got a socket set attachment on the end that’s just going to make the whole job a lot easier now whilst I’m up the SCAF I thought I’ll just take all our dimensions of exactly where our rebates are on our ribbon plate then when I jump down I can mark them all out on our beam 28:58 now I want to put a 5 degree fall on this pergola say as per my plan if I put a level line from the top of my ribbon plate across I come down 193 that’ll give me exactly 5 degree 4 okay so that’s 193 now that is to the top of our beam now I’ve got a little cross section of our beam that there is going to sit flush on the outside and so what we’re going to do is just physically mark the bottom of our beam now that there is the top of our place so we can now measure that and cut out poster suit 23 82 okay my post has cut to length of attention for 20 more Packers on I’ve got the neoprene washer there I’ve drilled a hole all the way through the only thing I have to do now is attach this to the house now this is pretty much exactly the same as the way we touch their rim plate to the house fantastic right we’re all set up now to chop off the top of the other two posts just to recap the 193 millimeter measurement is from the top of the ribbon plate this gives us our five-degree full add the width of the beam to this and that’s the top of the post okay now what I’m going to do is exactly the same as on the other end I’m going to live it across from the top of our ribbon plate come down 193 193 now thickness of my beam okay there’s just one last thing I’m going to do to this post I’m going to put our beam back on it because our beam has got to be flush with the front of the post I’m just got to mark the backside because I’ve been 65 our post is 90 and I’m just going to cut a 45 degree on there that’ll create a nice little detail and then we’re going to string line from one end to the other and that’ll indicate exactly where to chop off the middle post so I’m just going to square across from our string line chop that off again just as we same as with every other one so let’s just give the edge just a light little took it up take off those sharp points enough to have done this we’ll just put a little bit of primer paint on there keep it all looking good the next thing I need to do is to get the overall length of the beam to do that I’m measuring from the outside of the post attached to the house to my string line I then come back 63 millimeters which gives me the length of the beam that’ll give me a dimension of five seven oh eight now that’s exactly what I’m going to cut my beam to ok the slope on my pergola is five degrees so I’m going to need to cut all the rafters at that five degrees so what I’m going to do is cut a scrap piece of timber five degrees and transfer that measurement onto the beam now I’ve already cut my beam to length using the old trusty circular saw okay so I’m just going to start marking out from all our dimensions that we got off the ribbon plate now just have to make sure that you put the rebate on the right side so I know all my marks are on my left the rebate will be on the right next one is 1901 now one of the reasons I cut five degrees on my little block of timber do always just square that mark down first now that five degrees is actually going to give me the exact length that our rebate out of now being righty-o I’ll sit meticulous order ten millimeters so I’m just going to rebate out now be ready for the rafters right here there’s looking absolutely lovely now the most conventional way of building a pergola is by setting our rafters on top of our beam now as you can see this just looks a whole lot nicer and neater by rebaiting them in now apply primer too albeit timber now the most conventional way that we attach our beam to our post is by using one of these bow Mac brackets and that will bolt all the way through our beam and our pace but you know what I really don’t like the look of this but I still need a mechanical fixing to attach our beam to our post so what I am actually going to use is the length of threaded rod so I’m going to drill a hole all the way through our beam and then into our post and we’re going to glue that in such a ok now it’s time to mark out exactly where our holes are going to go for our threaded rod so all I’ve done is push the beam hard up against our post I’ve ensured that it’s flush with that in here I know it’s overhanging here so all I have to do is just mark the center of the post on our beam now turn the beam over and square it from your centers to the middle of the beam for the position of your holes now just before I rip into drilling this hole what I have got here is a standard speed ball on the end of a drill extension now the great thing about these drill extensions you know pretty much most people have got speed ball sets at home so all I’ve done is put just extension that you can slot your standard drill bits into it now I’m using a 16 mil speed ball but I’ve got a 12 little threaded rod so that’s going to give me plenty of glue around the threaded rod when it goes into the timber okay so I just want to make the center of our posting just to do that I’m just going to make the diagonals cool and we just want to drill down about the length of our drill bit which is 130 millimeters now what is pretty important before we put our glue there we just want to make sure that we get all our dust out of there so you can either blow it out with a compressor or a little hand pump righty I’ve already pre-cut my threaded rod using my hacksaw now the lens for this was the length of our beam plus our 130 millimeters that went into our hole so now it’s time to go up our posts now the type of glue that I’m using to secure these bolts in place is a high performance epoxy anchoring system now this one is actually designed for concrete and timber so we’ll just pump this is a two-part epoxy so as we squeeze it out the two parts are mixing now we don’t want to stuff around too much on this because the glue can go off and hot weather pretty quickly righty-o obviously you’re going to need a mate to give your hand dropping us in place just take your time now we’re just going to fill that hole full of our epoxy and then link the two together with our threaded rod don’t be too shy of giving it too much we want that hole filled up completely nice so all I’m going to do drop our threaded rod in place and I’m going to let that go off overnight so in the meantime I’m just going to clamp the post to the beam so that doesn’t move while that’s sitting now I just want to repeat the same for other two posts right now it’s time to cut our rafters so there’s a couple of different ways we can get our length of our after I could use it with tape measure and actually physically measure and between our beam and our ribbon plate or I can actually just take and pitch the rafter that is slightly longer and all I’m going to do I just got that sitting on my nail and I’m going to place this on the outside and actually scribe it so no I can’t go wrong righty-right is my first rafter cut now I’m just got to slot that into position that’s footing nice and lovely now I’m going to use this as a template take this down the other end and just check to see if that fits in nice and tight that’s looking good I’ll just check it one more time in the middle of our beam and if that’s going in nice and tight there I’ll pre-cut all the rafters the same dimension now if you don’t feel confident cutting them all exactly the same you might want to just be sure as measure each one individually just double-check that we’re looking pretty good down here that’s a nice tight fit we’ll just check in the middle in right yeah this looking absolutely marvelous now I can pre cut all our after the deck of the same okay I’ve installed all the other rafters I’ve just saved this last one to show you what I have done is pre-drill a 5 millimeter hole through the front of our beam because I’m going to face folks through the beam with us 150 mil bugle screw now these absolutely fantastic I’m going to put them in with the impact driver I don’t need to worry about pre drilling into my rafters because all these are self tapping now down on the Reuben plate in what I’m attaching the rafters to the ribbon plate with these 10-gauge 3-inch Galvis okay one of the last things have to do before my purlins go on let’s just nail down our straps onto our rafters now we don’t need to fill up the strap every single hole as long as we’ve got a minimum of about six nails on there we’ll be good to go like I’m just about ready to put my peelings on now spm a plan it shows that I have four peelings sitting on top of the rafters so what I’m going to have is one on either end and two in the middle so all I’ve done is taking that dimension divided it by three that gives me my spaces so I’ve got a nail hooked and down the end I’ve got my chalk line attached to it so what I’m going to do is just give that a ping it’ll mark all my rafters repeal and sit on that side of the line now I’m ready for my parents’ use the same string line technique to mark the position of the other metal Pilon so it’s one pealing on the ribbon plate one on the beam and the other two evenly spaced in the middle I’m just flexing off my last peel and now obviously we’ve got our straps here we can’t nail through that so what I’m going to do is just pre-drill a hole through the middle strap then I’m just going to nail it on by hand look at that a great result let’s really transform the exterior of this house we’ve created an extra outdoor area ready to be enjoyed and by following the plans it was easy as

Easy DIY Baby Blanket Sewing Tutorial

Hi, I’m Jen from Online Fabric Store. Making a baby blanket is fun because you get to choose prints and colors you like. The blanket I’m going to make is quick and easy. So let’s get started. The materials you’ll need are: 1 yard of minky, I’m using Gray Minky Dot fabric, 1 yard of cotton, I’m using Michael Miller Zoology Sea fabric, fabric scissors, a fabric marker, a ruler, ballpoint pins, and thread. Measure a 36 by 36 inch square out of the cotton and minky fabrics. Make sure you’re measuring on the wrong side of the fabric. Cut out both squares. Place the wrong side of the minky fabric on the table. Center the cotton fabric over the minky with the right side facing up. Fold the edges over 1 inch twice on all four sides and pin. For the corners, snip the extra fabric off at an angle before folding. Stitch with a 1/4 inch seam allowance along the fold line.

Back stitch at the beginning and the end. To keep the corners down, stitch along the outside edge. The baby blanket is now complete. By folding the edges over it gives the blanket a border and creates a finished look. You can use either side of this blanket. Thanks for watching this OFS project. .

How To Install Bamboo Screening – DIY At Bunnings

I’m going to show you how to install bamboo screening. Material we need for the job are our netting clips, our wire and our eyelets. Tools we need for the job are our drill, tape measure, screwdriver, pliers and our crimping tool. We’re going to install our eyelets into the fence to run our wire through to hang the bamboo fencing off. Now we’ve got three eyelets so we’re just going to fix them to the same heart of the rails of the fence, starting from the top and working down. I’ve got my drill with my drill bit so I’m going to do a pilot hole. A handy hint when fixing the eyelets to the fence is use a screwdriver, fit it through the eyelet like that, and then just turn it. Also too, when you’ve finished screwing in the eyelet to the fence, make sure that it is running vertically to take your wire to run down the fence. Now we have our first row of eyelets in, we’re going to go ahead and install the rest of our eyelets along our fence.

Now, the distance that we have to span, we’re going to go one in the middle and then one at either end. The next step in the process is running our wire through the eyelets and tying it off at each end. You might need someone to give you a hand with this so I’ve got my mate Andy to come and give me a hand. He’s going to hold one end and we’re going to measure our length of wire before we fit it through the eyelets. Thank you Andy. Now we’re going to cut it to length. When you cut it, it always pays to do 100mm extra than what you need so you’ve got wire to tie it off.

Now that we’ve cut our wire, we’re going to feed it through the eyelets and tie it off. So now that we’ve got our wires run through our eyelets, we’re going to fix it off at each end. It’s just a matter of getting your wire and just twisting it round each other and then snipping it off at the end. Now that we’ve got this end tied off, we’re going to go down the other end and take tension on the wire and tie the other end off. It’s also a good idea that as you’re walking down the wire to stretch it out and take any kinks out of it as you’re working down it. Next step in the process is to roll out our bamboo fencing, fixing the bamboo fencing to our wire with our crimping tool and our netting clips.

It’s just a simple process of putting the netting clip in the crimping tool like that, and then applying pressure just to clamp it down like that. We’re going to go ahead and crimp the rest of the wire, doing spaces at three to four hundred as we go along on each wire. When we get to the next bamboo sheet, it’s just a matter of rolling it out and butting it up to the existing bamboo sheet, and then crimping it off. Now that we have crimped off our three wires, we’ve got a bit of an opening at the top up there. It’s just a matter of bringing them together and crimping them together on these two wires out of there. Now that we’ve got our bamboo screening rolled out against the fence, it’s just a matter of crimping off this end. Now it’s also a good tip that when you’re crimping it just to make sure that you crimp it through a loop of the wire, so you can take tension on it and so it doesn’t slide down the wire.

As you can see, we’ve come to the end of our run. We have a little bit of overhang. It’s just a simple matter of getting your tin snips and snipping off each wire, leaving an inch overhang from the end of the eyelet. And that’s how you go about installing bamboo screening. .

DIY Platform Bed With Floating Night Stands (Plans Available)

Picture yourself walking into your room and absorbing the feeling of accomplishment This is the feeling I get when I walk in this space Let me take a few seconds to give you the detail on this build the majority of this platform bed was made entirely from 8-Inch lumber from Your local hardware store featuring two floating nightstand with the idea of saving space and not jeopardizing Functionality the next only has a place to store your lamp but on the inside I also have a place to store a book and IPad and anything that you want within arm’s reach and also let’s not forget the electrical outlet providing you two ports to charge your lamp Or any device and one of my most important features of this build is the on and off switch That control the undermount led puck lights and with the added lights these gives off a luxury feel within the space and with the whopping 116 inch headboard back with Led strips to set the mood in your space Hey, what’s up guys? I’m going with Diy creators and today I’m going to making a modern platform bag for the bedroom actually be getting a ton of requests to make a bed and actually we Do the bed so you know I like like you know? I love leds, and I’ve had to find a way to incorporate them and with this build This is basically a temporary bed for me and what I mean by that is there’s a lot of work I need to do in this room gotta paint the wall.

I replaced the floors a lot of things I want to do and this bed is not what I had in my dream bedroom But it’s a space right now And it should for the time being actually like the way this one came and hopefully you guys are in this one, so if you check out in the video description You should see all the information about the bed how much it costs and other details about it? So if you have any question you can check there you can just ask me any comments And I’ll get back to you and with that being said let’s do it For this project you do not need a ton of tools But there’s a ton of cutting and I would totally recommend a miter saw if you don’t have one. Maybe you can borrow one you can rent from your local hardware store your next option would using a circular saw and You’d probably want to use a jig to cut those just so you have some consistency I do have a jig that I made a while back So you can check that out or you can check out into one of the circular saw cutting guides And that should help you along with this project There’s a ton of cutting with this project and majority of it is all repetitive So I’m just going to make all my cuts and then you can see here’s all the finishing pieces that I’ve cut down to size And now that everything is cut I can now move on to sanding Now you only need one sander for this project, but since I had the luxury of having two of them I decided to put both them to use I used one with 80 grit sandpaper on it and then I use the other one with 120 grit Sandpaper on it now keep in .

If you have a thickness planer, and this is probably the time to use it That is number come pretty rough So there’s a ton of work prepping them and smoothing them out and I do this process over and over again And then I finally finish sanding them off with 120 grit sandpaper I’m not sure how well this works, but I was doing everything in my power to speed up the process for the bed frame I’m going to use a glossy latex black paint so applied paint I’m using a foam roller and this gave me the best chance of getting a good finish without putting out a paint sprayer For the backing on the headboard I use plywood and those gonna come in 8-foot section So the thing is I need to extend those and I use plywood Glue and also pocket hole screws just to extend it to the width that I need The bed Frame is painted black and to keep a consistent look I painted the bottom part of the headboard as well So that it blends in at this point the plywood is pretty heavy on its own, but more and more add foot on it It’s going to get heavy in heavier each time so it’s important secure the plywood in place as you the pieces Of course having a helping hand with total make your job a whole lot easier But if you don’t have the luxury of that the clamps work, just fine After adding all the lumber the headboard became extremely heavy if I had to guess it was probably between 300 and 400 pounds Being that I’m so close to the edge is best to pre-drill so that I don’t split the lumber So secure the lumber to the plywood I add a two screw per board approximately every 24 inches Due to the size of the headboard your eyes will be drawn it more than anything else on the bed So in this case Doujin design the way you like Maybe you want to carry the wood across the entire width of the plywood in this case for me I wanted to see that line going back and forth I wanted that stagger look I just continue the same step over and over until I get to the last row For the finish I use a dark walnut danish all apply with the rag now if you like the color darker You can always add more and more layers, but I was pretty satisfied with the tone of this one now Let’s move the focus over to the floating Nightstand each Nightstand will have the same set up make life a little easy I’m going to cut out the junction box opening so that we can install those later on Using a Jigsaw will make quick work of removing this section if you don’t have a jigsaw you can always drill a bunch of holes And then chisel out the rest if you feel like you like a challenge And you want to do this by hand you can always use a coping saw go this route.

It’s a lot of work, but it’s still an option To assemble the Nightstand I’m going to use dowels Now dowels can be frustrated in the work with because you have to be pinpoint on to make sure everything line up You should mark both pieces of wood at the same time that way you have a reference when you use the dowel jig This dowel jig by Rockler actually have a center line them it you place the center line on the marking You’ll be more than likely to get a straight hole drilled Before applying glue.

It’s always best to test to make sure everything fits. Well as a reminder mark both pieces the same so I know which to go together to ensure that my Accuracy was on I just marked drilled mark drilled And I did the same thing all the way around for each side on each box wasn’t sure about a quarter inch dowels, so decided to beef those up with and This pretty self-explanatory I’m just going to add a ton of glue in the hole on the joints and also on top of the dowels as well And after this part is done. It’s time to bring out the clamps once the glue dries That’s what the majority of the strength comes from so you want to be sure that you clamp this down as tight as possible If you don’t build often enough and don’t further need to own clamps which you could do is use screws and Wood glue at the Joints Then use wood filler to cover the screw heads My intention is to have the end table an inch or two inch lower than the top of the bed next going to measure And mark the inside of the end table Then I’m going to drill a few pilot holes going all the way through the headboard just to mark the backside of the end table I want this switch to be somewhat hidden But also in the location that I can get to it easily and this switch is meant to turn on the puck light that’s going To be below the end table the light that I plan put here comes in a kit And it also has a tail on it, so what I’m going to do to keep the your hidden I’m going to drill up, but at an angle so the way you come out through the back so at this point It’s a good idea to just mark everything while the end table is in place even though outlet and with the end table removed I Can now drill all the holes out for the bolts to pass through the last bolt? I just drew actually fell into the opening of the outlet so I had to redo that one The NCA was meant to be removable this way you can remove it and move the headboard around that will notice I have tape on My drill bit as an indicator so that I didn’t exit out the other side of the table This is the location that I plan to put the on and off switch for the puck legs Since I can’t get my drill to drilling from the inside I’m going to attach a piece of wood and drill in from the backside and this way I can avoid any major tear outs I drew the 3/4 hole, but it seems like it’s a tight fit So I just have to wobble out the hole just a little bit to accept the switch after and applying the Danish oil as I did previously now going to add wipe-on poly urethane as a top coat for this finish after applying the first coat of polyurethane And then went back with a 400 grit sandpaper sand that down then I applied one more coat onto it You can do it a third time to get it even better finish, but I was happy with a second coat Since I wanted to achieve the glowing effect behind the headboard I decided to add some Strips of wood going around and this would serve a couple of things one is a resting area for the leds sit But also help kicks the bed off the wall So when I plug the power cord in it doesn’t interfere with the headboard not I have the headboard in the room I’m going to add the electrical wire and that’s going to go from one outlet to other outlet Here’s the puck that I shown previously in the video I’m just going to cut the plastic Connector off of it Pass the wire through that was drilled and then screw the light into place These led puck light comes in a kit, and I really like the low profile of them and I have links to these down in the video description, you have the on off switch for these I’m going to use some spade Connectors which are called push on Connectors or many different names ? Terminated those to a piece of wire pass the wire through the hole and then I can insert the switch So getting a switch in the hole was a pretty tight fit, but I made it I left all the wires pretty long so I can pass them the pre-drilled hole that was done early on in the video and now that all the cables pass through I should have the wiring for the puck light the electrical and also the wiring for the switch and After getting the end table under the headboard I can now install the bolts Now I can fasten all the down and keep everything neat and out of the way before screwing the will into place I actually tested out the leds just to see get the best glow and I found that place in it one inch away From the Edge actually gave me a go that I actually like turns out the led strip was pretty close to of the going around the entire perimeter So I didn’t have to add or cut any off Drew the half inch hole then forced the Connector through the hole I probably could use a different method here because I had a tough keeping the cable flat while it was passing through the hole Since I have a ton of option the receiver would sit in this general area allowing me to pass the Ir receiver Just outside the hole and to keep everything in place I’m just going to apply a ton of hot glue to create a plug that I can plug in the wall I’m going to take an old extension cord cut off the end and I’m going to use that wire so that I can make the connection Since I’m actually hiding the two outlets behind the bed I need to bring some outlets back to the front of the bed, so I’m going to try to keep these hidden as well But the cool thing these outlet Is they actually have a uSb port on them? These outlets are fairly simple to hook up you have a green wire goes the green terminal Ground you have a white wire or in this case.

It’s a yellow wire and that goes to the silver screw Which is your neutral and the next wire you have left over is the black wire that goes to your gold terminal? That’s your hot leg coming in this old extension cord that I have actually have two white legs on it So I need to do a continuity test to figure out which one is the hot leg or the neutral once I find the hot Leg I colored it with a black sharpie So the outlet on the far hand only has one wire at that location this actually has two wires the one that comes from the other outlet and the other one that goes to the wall and Since I’m in the us I’m only going to address the outlet that I’m most familiar with If thinking with electricity is not really your thing what you do is work on a circuit with it unplug or powered off Once you’ve wired it up You can the inexpensive tester like this one to take it your circuit is correct Or is incorrect will also tell you that if you hooked up a wire Backwards or if you have an open ground or hot or even a neutral now? It’s really important that you use a junction box so that nothing gets out of place Now that I’m done with the time to work on the and here.

I’m going to use terminal block now I was planning to explain what I was doing here, but then I realized that after I finished wiring this up It actually looked pretty complicated so I’m going to create a diagram just to give you a basic and Simplified version of what I’m doing here now the reason why I went this route because I to easily disconnect the end table if I needed to move the bed at a later period Because I will be getting rid of this bed at some point So to clarify this area.

I have my power card here this will get plugged in the wall And this will give power to my outlets here I have a transformer that would be powering the leds and also to pluck lights I mean this headboard is really heavy, so I’m really surprised to see how the hand table. Hold is up like a champ After the headboard goes up I won’t be able to get behind it because it’s so massive and so much work I have to do to get there With the headboard being so heavy I used a three inch screw going through the headboard and right into the wall I only have one in the middle But if you want to be extremely safe you can always had three of them one in the middle and two on the head Once you attach the bed frame. It. Ain’t going anywhere to hold the bed frame that yet I’m going to use these thick brackets and the biggest thing about this design is being able to take it back apart And that’s why I designed it the way.

I did because at some . I’m going to get rid of the bed This is just a temporary fix for my room So somebody’s going to get this bed, and I’m going to use to get it out of here by taking it apart in Addition to add in the brackets I was planning to add dowels what a two piece of wood meat But it was so strong decided to go away from that now after in the bracket you can see it interferes with a piece of wood I had So I have to notch that out just so I can get the wood to fit I wanted the support piece to be flush with the top part of the bed frame Using the combination square was a huge help after setting the depth going around I can then take a combination square eliminating the use of a tape measure after a piece along the foot side of the bed Then actually help out when it comes to lining up the center beam because I didn’t have to measure or find what the center was Somehow I forgot to pick up enough corner brackets which I plan add here in the middle But I didn’t want to break away from the project and go pick up any so I use these L brackets and these actually worked Out just fine I just staggered them one on one side one at the bottom and one at the top did the same thing on the opposite side I Only put one full day of work into this project the other days was like in small spurts So actually felt like I was never going to get done with this project until I started adding these support pieces I Add a two screws per connection point that would be at both ends and also in the middle To secure the lip of the bed to the frame I’m going to use some corner brackets on the inside and also on the outside going to the total of four per side Now all I have to do is line up, and then I can move on to screwing it from the inside Well, if you ask me it looks strong enough, and you’re probably wondering what do I do at the end well here? I’m going to use a mending plate And I’m using this plate to attach it from the bottom and this is a perfect situation for that because that keep the two pieces of wood flush with each other Also, added some smaller bracket that was secured a lip from the inside After adding the bracket to the outside this provided the strength that I was looking for now You cannot see this bracket when you look at the bed unless you bend down and look under it But one thing I could’ve did was actually the spray-painting that I would have blend in better now I did take a lot of and maneuvering to get the bed Fine-tune that I have the proper spacing on both sides now all I have to do is attach the bed frame to the headboard Throw the quarter inch plywood on top just throw a few screws in it secure it in place Throw the bed on there, and we’ve done I really had to cut a victory dance out of this one because I just went crazy.

I was so happy this project We’re done. Hope you guys like this one. Hope you like this one And that’s it for this one guys be sure to like subscribe And I love to hear your thoughts on this one if you have any questions, just leave them down in the comments And I’ll get back to you as soon as I can and be sure to follow me on at Diy creators 2015 and I want to give a big shout out and thank you to my friends over on Patreon for supporting the channel if you’re Able, please consider supporting the channel as well, so we can continue to make content like this.

Have a good one guys you .

Palm Leaf Fish Garnish

Welcome back to another cooking video. I’m Chef Devaux and today I’m going to teach you how to make a very simple little garnish out of just a palm tree leaf that will look stunning on any sushi platter. Okay let’s get right into it, let’s get going! Okay to make this garnish you’re going to need a palm leaf like this and you just want to tear off one of the strips like so. Now here I’m just going to cut the end off, there we go. Now you’re going to need two of these.

Before you start getting to making the garnish you’re going to want to remove the little stringy bits and clean these before you get to any making of the garnish. Okay, so now you’ve done that, just place one between your thumb and your index finger and make a loop, make sure it’s big enough and then you make a second loop and hold it all together with your index finger.

Now you want to take the second strip and just feed it in through the middle and going through the outside of the first loop and feed it in 80% of the way through. Then you want to go through the inside and the outside of the opposite side, just like that. I’m just going to feed it in a little bit more, there we go. And now you want to go through the outside and then the inside, and then you want to do the same on the other side. So again you go on the outside and then the inside. There we go that’s basically it. Now all you have to do is just tighten this up.

So you want to pull on the excesses here and you just keep pulling and threading it through and just moving it about until you’ve compressed the inside and taken all the slack out of it. Once you’ve done that it will hold together in one piece, so just a little bit more, this is just a little bit fidgety but you get through it and just keep going. There we go, that’s it. Now you just need to do a little bit of trimming to finish it off. I like to do a little zigzag pattern on the inside fins like this, it gives it a little bit of a fishy vibe and I think it really adds to the design.

Okay so do the same on the opposite side, just like that – okay great, and now I’m going to do just a straight cut for the outer fins, there we go and that’s it. That’s how simple it is to make a palm leaf into a fish design that you can use for garnishing your sushi platters or any other dish. Alright, I hope you enjoyed seeing how to make this simple little garnish. If you want to check out some more of my garnishes, check out this video right here. Thank you for watching, see you next week. Bye! END .

Underground House – DIY | How to build a house under the ground

Hey Guys What’s up friends? It’s me the Interesting and I’m Ficus You have asked us to make a house under the ground And today we’ll do it And if you, Yes, You haven’t subscribed to our channel yet Make sure to do it right now So let’s get started Guys, we need to dig a big pit. You can understand And for this we need a shovel, right? Let’s take 2 of them Now both of us have a separate shovel Stop it, People are looking at us So guys, now we are removing the top layer of the soil with grass when our house will be ready, we’ll lay a roof on the top in order to disguise it so that it’ll be not visible Snowman for the Poor It digs quite well but still it’s difficult.

We’ve already been digging around for 3 hours Guys, we are so tired of digging that we realized that this is really difficult so we decided to call an Excavator Guys, this is the fastest transport in the world Sergey, can you imagine this land is thousand years old Really? Maybe we’ll find some caveman there I need your clothes I’ll be back We thought that we can dig up such a pit by ourselves But we couldn’t Whoa, amazing Its cool, isn’t it? Guys, really cool Guys, today we’ll not have time to do anything, so tomorrow we’ll start constructing our house Yes, and it’ll be beautiful It’ll be really awesome, guys Look how high it is, exactly an outstretched arm Really It seems to me, we overdid it Guys, our venue can’t be changed and we’re back in the hardware store In my favorite “Leroy Merlin” Damn! It’s very difficult to choose the boards.

All of them are with knots, so they need to be chosen accurately Guys, without my help they can’t do anything, really For our house we took a cypress. It smells very cool. But you know it’s a street plant so later we’ll place it outside Guys, we have fully packed up the car with the goods from which we will make our house It’s really full.

Look at the top These are OSB sheets from which we’ll make the framework Today really we’ve got a lot of things and above all there are more passengers today so we don’t have enough space in the car Alight, Hurry up! Let’s move, we need to build the house How should we call our tree? Arthur? Is it suitable name? We watched a movie about King Arthur Yes, exactly Guys, I think you all know about the movie King Arthur, we really enjoyed watching it. Alright guys, we have arrived to the pace with all the materials From which we will construct our house And everything is so calculated, so now we should start the construction And what do you think we should do first? Well at first we need to make a ladder Then start making it And now I am leveling the walls, so that these boards fit well inside We’ve already done with the floor Guys, It’s started raining. We need to do it faster It’s already so cozy feeling inside Here we go Our box is ready. Only thing left is to put the roof and make some decor in the house so that we feel inside cozy and comfortable Aren’t you scared? No I can already imagine the picture.

Here we have the shelves, tables and chairs. It all closes and it has a small hole leading outwards This is for the fresh air to enter inside the house because we’ll close it completely. And in case of rain or something, there will be ventilation We have already begun to paint the walls of our house Look, What happened to this! You had such a nice shoes Yes, it was nice Well it’s an acrylic paint, everything will be ok Aha, need to clean them Guys, now it’s time to cover this area with soil so that our house will be unnoticeable for others Wow! Cool I heard something sputtering.

I thought that you are going to cover me inside Come and have a look inside, I’ve almost painted it and it looks cool Wow, it’s so awesome and cozy inside Wow, we got here Christmas tree Christmas tree- Arthur, guys! Woah! Superb! but who is it? This is drawn by Ira. It’s you and Ficus It’s really nice I really like it, guys Just the halo from above, it’s clearly not about him It’s exactly about me We bought such big solar lighting lamps, which are charged from the Sun and lights at night It’s just perfect, because here we have got such holders You take it from the street, put it here and you’ll have a light at home. So now we let it charge to use it later Guys, we’ll really have an exhaust fan. We bought such a fan which we’ll fix it over here Here it is And now we fix it here. So guys we have such a fan inside. It will be pump in fresh air when the door is closed Cool Fresh air from the street This is protection against mad drunkards and drug addicts Wow, it worked immediately Yes So bright! Don’t even have to close anything Just because it’s already dark here I’m terribly tired today But I’m very glad that we made this house.

I have incredible emotions. I just can’t show them, because I’m very tired We did everything in this house to make it comfortable for living. You look at this wall. It’s really kick-ass Roughly speaking, this is not a wall, it’s like a studio You can bring here people for photography and make some money. It’ll be cool, right? Everything is stylish. By the way, it’s Dima who was actually designed the interior So without his help, it wouldn’t have been so attractive inside No, It was actually a good team work Ok, we were an excellent team Today you need to spend the night here, remember? Yes, by tradition Did you hear it guys? It’s the exhaust fan working. Really it can be felt Can you imagine? Here you can even walk. In the evening, anybody can pass around it and nothing will fall apart He won’t even notice it. Yes, that’s true Yes Well, it’s necessary to moisten a little bit with water so that the grass would be well sprouted.

And then it will be completely unnoticeable as everything will grow together with the ground and it’ll be alright Guys, agree with us that we got a cool underground house. Yeah? I thought that our house would be 3 times smaller We are delighted and hope you are too. So please give it a like Yes guys, please support this video and leave your comments down below Write us guys, what kind of house should we make next? We really like this category.

So subscribe to the channel Click on the bell to not miss out the new videos Thanks for watching Bye everyone .

Kerf Bending Plywood – DIY Ottoman Table Build

The problem: Ottomans take up space, no room for coffee table. Ripping 16″ section off birch plywood panel. Marking the center to find where the corners will be. Seven kerfs spaced 1/4″ apart. Raising blade to leave just 1/8″ of material. Scariest part! Running the plywood to cut the kerf. Phew! Cutting the rest of the kerfs. Test bend. Set depth of circular saw to almost bite through. Plunge cut. These create space for hidden splines. Test bend. Scrap hardwood ripped to fit in the circular saw kerf. Cutting out splines. Ready for the glue up! Apply a lot of glue! Clamp and check for square. Insert splines and let dry for a few days. Old desk leg, apply adhesive and sandpaper. Perfect for cleaning up the inside curves. Fill any left over voids. Sand smooth. Not bad! Placing together leaves a void.

Let’s fix it! Marking so it will be flush with the flat surfaces. Cut out on the bandsaw. Round edges on disc sander. Creating the center strip. Setting blade to cut 15° Slicing one side. Flip and slice other side. I went as far as needed, killed the table saw and took out the piece rather than run it entirely through unsafely. That’ll do. Marking out the profile for a lap joint. Cutting out on the bandsaw. Gluing in place. Apply polyurethane. Line inside with a slippery material. Trim flush with razor blade. It fits! This one fits too! Move two together to add the flush insert. Glamor shots. .