Floor Moisture Barrier – When Do I Need It?

On a concrete subfloor, if your product has pad attached already, you still need a Moisture Barrier, a painter’s plastic, a Visqueen plastic, a product similar to that. It’s a very, very thin 6 mil. product. We sell a product that comes in rolls of 150 feet. That’s all you MUST have when you’re on a concrete subfloor, and your product has pad attached. Now you could also purchase our 2mm foam that has a moisture barrier attached. That will give you 2 milimeters more foam, obviously. That gives you more comfort when you walk, and gives it a more quiet walk. So either way, you either have to have plastic, or a foam with a plastic. When your product has no pad attached, and you are installing over a concrete subfloor, you must have the pad, and you must have the moisture barrier. If you’re going over concrete, and you have no pad attached, this is the bare minimum of what you must have.

If you have pad attached to your laminate, this plastic film is your bare minimum, and that is sold separately, or you can upgrade to this product. Like I said, a little bit more comfort when you walk, a little bit more sound killing, and a little bit warmer. Your options for laminate are without pad, or with pad. And then depending on your subfloor, that’s the key element here, determines what else you may or may not need, whether you just need a plastic, whether you need a foam with a plastic, or the sound killing felt with a plastic.


How To Build A Wooden Desk Lamp | DIY Project

Today I’m going to show you how to make this gorgeous looking wooden desk lamp using simple hand tools. For material I used two solid wood boards, one board 3 centimeters wide and thick, and another board 1 centimeter wide and thick. To create the lampshade, I used a piece of paper and the linen fabric. I also need a light bulb, a socket, and a cord. So, let’s get started! First, I marked all those dimensions needed for the lamp base. Then I cut the board using a handsaw. You can find the exact dimensions down in the video description.

Next, I’m sanding the edges of the pieces that I’ve cut to make them even, so it would be easier to work with the glue. To get the desired shape, I glued all the pieces of the wood together using a wood glue, a square ruler, and some clamps. You need a lot of patience, because you can’t glue all at once, but it’s definitely worth the time. Before gluing the last piece of wood I marked the center point of the lampshade and drilled a hole for the cord 4.5 centimeters deep using 6 millimeter bit. I extended the hole from the backside of the same piece of wood at a 45 degree angle, so it would be much easier for the cord to pass through. Then I glued up this last piece of the lamp base. Now let’s move on to the lampshade frame.

I marked the dimensions of the second board. I made a cuboid frame 20 centimeters high and 15 centimeters wide. So, I cut four pieces 12 centimeters long and eight pieces 13 centimeters long. The last and most important piece of wood is the frame support with size 5 by 13 centimeters. I used a 30 millimeter bit to countersink a hole 1 centimeter deep. then I used six millimeter bit to drill a hole all the way through, so that it perfectly matched the center of the base. The next step is building the cuboid frame. I glued all the pieces together and used square ruler along with the clamps to make a perfect right angle. To make everything nice and level, I’m going to hit with 120 grit sandpaper which should make a quick work of all the unevenness. then I finished it off with a spray paint. I painted both the base and the frame with the chocolate brown spray paint, because I wanted to create more contrast between them and the lampshade. I applied two coats of spray paint and left it to dry out.

After that, I moved on to making the lampshade. I used a paper roll and cut 62 by 21 centimeters of it. I also cut the linen fabric 63 by 23 centimeters, so that I could easily glue it to the paper, and fold the edges to get nice and smooth look. It took me some time until I finished gluing the fabric to the paper, because I wanted to make sure everything was lined up. I decided to use a wood glue and it actually turned out quite well. The glue wasn’t drying too fast, so I had some time to adjust the fabric to the paper with a ruler. I glued up the lampshade to the frame. It is very important to do this carefully, one side at a time, because you need to align the edges of the frame with the edges of the shade. I folded the fabric on the top of the frame to get the desired look, but you can skip this step simply by cutting the paper 20 centimeters wide at the beginning now. I can finally put all the pieces together. I’m mixing up some 5 min epoxy to stick the socket. I made sure everything was lined up, and then used wood glue to stick the lampshade to the base.

I held it with finger pressure for only a few minutes until the glue started to harden. I suggest you use LED light bulb, because it produces a very small insignificant amount of heat. This is the final result, and I ended up really liking it. Thank you so much for watching, and if you enjoyed this video hit the like button, and also subscribe to my channel if you want more DIY projects like this every week. .

What Kind of Finish Should You Use? | WOOD FINISHING BASICS

Grab yourself a good quality brush and prepare to — Microjig, maker of the Gripper. Work safer. Work smarter. — You’ll probably want to protect most of your projects you make with a finish. But applying a wood finish doesn’t have to be complicated. Let’s look at the basics to make things even easier on you. Some projects may not require any finish at all. For example there’s no huge benefit to applying a finish to shop projects.

A storage or tool cabinets or tables or work benches. Of course if you have a lot of visitors to your shop and you’d like to show off a beautiful workspace, then by all means, spruce up your shop fixtures. I like to paint some of my shop cabinets because the bright colors just make me happy and brighten up my mood. Speaking of which, I believe paint is the strongest, most durable, most practical, easiest to apply, finish there is. If it’s long-term durability you want, go with paint. I mean really, we use paint on our houses for a reason, because they’re subjected to all kinds of harsh weather conditions. Plus the choice of colors is unlimited. But of course the main drawback to paint is that it hides the wood and from my own experience on this show, that tends to make some people cranky.

There are lots of great-looking examples of painted furniture, and it really shouldn’t be discounted as an option. But for this video I’m only going to focus on clear protective topcoat. There are two main reasons to apply finish to wood projects. First, wood finishes help to protect wood from scratches, moisture damage, spills, stains, and UV damage from sunlight. Secondly, a finish will make wood look great. It’s very rewarding to watch the color and grain pop as soon as you apply a finish. Plus a nicely finished piece is very tactile and it just feels nice no matter what type of finish you use. It’s important to sand your project first. I usually start with a 120 grit sandpaper and then move up to a 220 grit sandpaper and I stop there. There’s rarely any reason to sand to any finer grit because the smooth feel of your surfaces will come from the finish that you apply after sanding. Make sure you remove all of the sawdust from your project. Dust particles are the bane of a good finish. I like to vacuum off the surfaces then wipe them off with a tack cloth then with a clean lint-free cloth like an old t-shirt.

I wipe everything down with mineral spirits or paint Center and this will also highlight any dents that are in the wood or any dried glue you may have missed. Plus it gives you a quick preview of what the wood will look like once it’s finished. For lots more information on sanding watch this basic video over here. If you go to a home center or hardware store it’s easy to be overwhelmed with choices. There are a lot of ways you could finish wood. There are entire books on the subject of finishing. In this video I’m only going to discuss a few of the most common finishes that hobbyists might want to use. There are two main kinds of finish. First, a layered finish. One that sticks to the surface of the wood, kind of like paint does. This includes polyurethane, lacquer, and other varnishes. And secondly, an oil finish, one that penetrates into the grain of the wood such as linseed oil or tung oil.

In general, a layered finish will offer a lot more protection to the wood, but it can look a little artificial or in some cases kind of plastic-y. Oil finishes on the other hand, are kind of earthier. The wood looks great and more natural but they don’t offer nearly as much protection. Polyurethane is probably the most popular finish today. The biggest drawback is that it can be very time consuming to apply. To get a good finish you need to apply at least three coats which realistically might take three days. Applying any finish with a brush is different than painting.

The goal is to avoid swiping back and forth and creating streaks or leaving behind air bubbles. It’s a good idea to pour your finish into a separate container to use rather than straight out of the can. This will help prevent contaminating your main supply. I like to start by conditioning my brush and dipping it in mineral spirits and soaking the bristles. Dip the brush into the finish all the way up to the ferrule and let it soak up as much as it can. Lightly press the tip against the can to remove any excess that might drip. A good quality brush should hold quite a bit of finish. Start at one edge of the wood and try to apply the finish in one long stroke along the entire length of the board, pressing down more and more on the brush as you get to the end, letting it release the finish the entire way.

Fill the brush up again and apply more slightly overlapping the first stroke. Mostly avoid brushing back and forth as if you were painting a fence. Use long steady strokes trying to let the finish flow as evenly as possible brush slowly and don’t stop to take a break until the entire surface is completely covered. If you find that you’ve missed a spot, skip it. Just leave it for the next coat. If you try to dab in a patch it can make it look worse. Also it’s a good idea to start with the edges and vertical surfaces of a project, then finish up with the top surface. Check the back of the can to see how much time you need to let it dry between coats. It could be 5 hours or more for an oil-based polyurethane and less time for water-based. Dry times will also differ based on temperature and humidity. Once each coat is dry it should be lightly sanded with 320 grit sandpaper to remove any dust nibs and help smooth the surface.

But don’t drive yourself crazy trying to get every inch perfectly sanded. In my experience, polyurethane will adhere just fine to the previous layer even without sanding. But sanding will give the finish a smoother feel. And make sure you remove all of the sanding dust before applying the next coat. Pay extra special care to applying the final coat to avoid brush marks, runs, and streaks. And use a good quality brush. You can buy oil or water-based poly. Both provide excellent protection to wood and each has its own advantages and disadvantages. Water-based poly is a lot easier to use. It has less odor and cleanup is easy with just soap and water. To clean up oil-based poly, you’ll need mineral spirits. Water-based poly dries a lot faster than oil-based poly but you’ll need to apply more coats. Usually three coats is fine for oil, but water-based poly will need four or even more coats. But really the biggest difference in the two types is how they look on wood.

I tend to prefer oil-based polyurethane because it gives the wood a warmer somewhat amber look that most people find very pleasing. Water-based poly is really clear sometimes people complain that it looks like a plastic coating on wood. Finally, there’s a third option called wipe-on poly which is just regular polyurethane that the manufacturer has thinned down with mineral spirits. You can actually just make your own if you like. It’s easy to apply, just pour some on a rag and wipe it on the wood. Wipe-on poly finish can look really great and sometimes even better than a brushed on finish. Of course you’ll probably need to add more coats of it for good results. If you’ve watched my show for any length of time you know that my favorite finish to use is a lacquer. It looks great and it dries incredibly fast.

With lacquer you can finish an entire project in just a few hours. Even faster for small projects. Almost all wood furniture that you might buy at a store is finished with lacquer. In industrial and professional production environments it’s always sprayed on with an HVLP sprayer. You can learn more about HVLP spraying here. Luckily there are two easier options available for hobbyists and weekened woodworkers. The first is brushing lacquer. Apply it using the exact same brushing procedure I described for polyurethane. The only change in technique is to brush a little faster and definitely, definitely don’t brush back and forth. Lacquer dries so quickly that it can gum up if you overwork it. Again, if you miss a spot don’t try to fix it, just get it in the next coat. If you can set up a backlight so that you can look across the surface as you apply the finish that helps out a lot.

The best part about lacquer is that you don’t need to sand it between coats. Rather than sitting on top of each other, each coat fuses into the one beneath it and this combination of fast drying and not having to sand allows you to build up lots of coats of lacquer in a very short time. You’ll need lacquer thinner to clean your brushes but I don’t clean the brushes thoroughly between coats. I like to just wrap the brush in a paper towel or rag moistened with lacquer thinner and just put it in a plastic bag.

I like to lightly sand the surface before applying the final coat of lacquer this will knock down any little dust nibs or drips and make the top coat very smooth. Without question, lacquer from a spray can is my go-to finish. It’s easy to apply, just spray it on in a back-and-forth motion being careful not to get too close or too slow where it can develop drips or runs. For small projects spray lacquer is an absolutely fantastic finish. You don’t need any brushes or lacquer thinner. To learn more about my technique for getting a great spray lacquer finish, watch this video over here. After the lacquer has fully cured say 24 hours or so, I like to smooth out the topcoat. To me this is what separates a good finish from a great finish. One that is very tactile and feels smooth without any dust nibs or other imperfections.

I almost always use gloss lacquer to get an easy satin finish. From that I lightly sand the surface with Faurot steel wool or a gray synthetic scrubbing pad. If you want you can actually rub that finish to a super high-gloss finish using finer and finer sandpaper and pumice. But that’s a topic for another video. I usually limit it to just that one smoothing because I like the look and feel of a satin finish. Of course you can buy satin lacquer but you’ll still need to rub down that final coat if you want it to have that great tactile feel. Gloss lacquer is just more versatile. Lacquer can be more expensive than other finishes, especially the spray cans. Secondly, lacquer has a very strong order that can be really harmful to breathe so use a respirator rated for organic vapors and solvent filtering. Lastly, some people complain about the look of lacquered finishes saying they look too artificial. I don’t share that opinion at all and I love the look of lacquered pieces. When you want a beautiful finish that looks absolutely gorgeous and really shows off the wood, an oil finish is a great option, plus it’s really the easiest finish to apply.

But like I mentioned earlier, an oil finish doesn’t offer much protection to wood it would not be a good choice say for a dining table or a desk that’s subjected to a lot of use. But an oil finish can be a good option for decorative pieces say picture frames or jewelry boxes. Oil finishes are arguably the most natural looking, close to the wood, earthy way to finish wood. There are basically two types of oil finishes Tung oil and Linseed oil. They both penetrate into the wood unlike lacquer or polyurethane that builds up on top of the wood. Applying either one is easy you just pour some on a rag or directly on the wood surface and wipe it in.

Let it sit for five to ten minutes then wipe it off. If I’m using Linseed oil I’d like to let it dry a couple of hours and then lightly sand the surface and apply a second coat. I’ve never seen any benefit to applying any more coats than two. Let it dry overnight and you’re good to go. Tung oil on the other hand can take days. Use the same wipe on wipe off procedure as a linseed oil but let it dry 24 hours before sanding it and applying the next coat.

Usually you’ll need to apply four or five coats. The benefit to Tung oil is that it offers more water resistance than linseed oil so it might be a good choice for say an end table that doesn’t get a whole lot of use. But if water resistance is your main concern why bother with an oil finish at all? Just use poly or lacquer. A third alternative that I consider an oil finish is Danish oil and it it’s actually a blend of polyurethane and Tung or linseed oil. I think it tries to be the best of both worlds in for the most part it does a pretty good job. But as you might expect it doesn’t look quite as natural as a pure oil finish and it doesn’t offer the protection of a layered finish.

In fact, a lot of people apply a coat of straight polyurethane on top of the Danish oil for added protection. For the most part finishing doesn’t have to be a real chore and for small projects you can’t go wrong with the simplicity of spray lacquer. Well there are lots of other types of finishes such as shellac and finishing wax and there are tons of different techniques for finishing wood. I hope this video has been helpful and is enough to get you started. Please be sure to subscribe to Woodworking for Mere Mortals and share this video if you found it useful. Thanks for watching everybody! I’ll see you next time. .

How to make a plywood Tatami Bed

Welcome back! Today I’m going to make a Japanese-style bed. These beds are lower than western ones, with the mattress embedded in a wooden frame. I’ve tried to come up with a design that would be easy to make using plywood, although other kinds of wooden sheets could also be used. Besides, this design is easy to assemble and disassemble, quite convenient if we want to move. I’ve designed two types of bed. This one is meant to be adapted to a common metal bed frame which you can find in any store. As you can see, the bed frame rests on these four corners which, in turn, join all the pieces. The other bed design is of the same size. However, for this design we’ll use a homemade plywood frame. In this video I’ll show you how I made the first of the two models, although both beds have similar makes.

By changing the length of some pieces we can adapt this design to any bed size. Now let’s take a look at how I made it. This time around, in order to save time I’ve ordered some pre-cut pieces from the same warehouse where I bought the board, since the parts are quite large. I’ll start by cutting these pieces at an angle. They’ll be used to make the headboard thicker. I’ll also machine this rebate to work around the floor plinth. I’ll also glue these pieces together, onto which I will later screw the bed side rails. Now I glue the three upper side rails together to make them thicker. I machine these pieces like this and put them in place with glue.

I sand these parts now that it’s easier and screw the bed side rails in like this. Now I can start assembling the bed. I cut these two pieces in half to make four supports for the bed frame. First I screw this one onto the side rails, keeping it 1mm away from the edge. I remove the piece and then screw it onto the headboard. This way, when screwing it back on, the screws will put pressure and the joint between the side rail and the headboard will be tighter. I’ll use the same system for the back. I’ve numbered all the corners to make future assemblies easier. With these last screws I finish putting the bed together. Now it’s time to set up the nightstands. I glue these parts together and add a little salt to stop them from moving due to the glue’s viscosity. Once the glue is dry, I sand the inner part now that it’s easier and continue assembling the nightstands.

I finish sanding all the pieces that make up the bed and apply three coats of satin water-based varnish. I’m going to put everything back together at the workshop to see what the finished bed looks like. I love how the edge of the plywood looks. Of course, we could apply some dye to change the color, but I like the natural look of birch wood. .

How to build Eiffel tower scale model (Part 3/3)

Coming in this episode I seed some grass Put impatient people to wait in a queue and get this whole sh*t completed Take a comfy chair and relax Well hello there! As you can see I started this third episode by making this final third of the tower Next I will build the third floor, the sky deck And then I can attach this to the parts I have done earlier I have to admit that this looks quite nice Now the only thing that is left is the surroundings I’ll turn this ugly brown area into beautiful grass and put some trees and also little people standing under this tower I really like these little people here They kind of turn this tower alive I will put just a couple more of them and then this whole project is completed It’s now time to say thank you all for joining me on this pleasant journey This has become a really nice model I will now keep a little holiday from these projects But after that, on september maybe I will continue doing some new models There are for excample London eye, Sydney opera house and Empire state building on my list And then of course, because I have a plenty of football fans following me a new stadium project will also be out still in this year alright that is the last one…

Let’s put it in place like this… Yeah Huh! Now it’s all done! Have a nice summer and see you! .

33 – How To Edgeband Plywood

Marc: Plywood is an excellent material for building furniture. But it suffers from one major flaw, ugly edges. (rock music) Despite what some may think, plywood is not a four letter word. Actually it’s more like seven letters and you definitely should not be afraid to use it in your projects. Some of my favorite pieces contain plywood. The panels of this amoire, the doors of this jewelry box, the top of this hall table, and this entire desk system. Yep, all plywood. Plywood is flat, it’s stable, and it comes in lots of varieties. And you could even use plywood as a base for your favorite exotic veneers. Now, descent plywood should run you at least $40 a sheet, but even the most expensive plywood presents the same old challenge. How do you treat the edges? Now the most common solution is edge banding. Edge banding comes in a number of varieties including; thin veneer, thin home sawn veneer, and then a more substantial solid wood strip.

The thin veneer edge banding usually comes in rolls like this and it can be purchased plain or in the iron-on variety. Now personally I prefer a good quality iron-on banding. By good quality, I mean a nice, clean face and a good chunky layer of glue on the other side. Now, I usually pick this material up at my local hardwood dealer. So why not use the regular stuff, without the pre-applied glue? Well, I find it difficult to get the proper clamping pressure across the edge and it’s a lot messier.

It also takes a lot longer to dry, so pre-glued is the only way to go in my shop. Now, it’s no secret that veneer edge banding gets a pretty bad rap. Most people see this stuff and immediately think that it’s gonna peel off or just become a problem down the road and that’s not necessarily true if you use the right material and you apply it correctly. Let me show you how. Here are the basic tools you’ll need for the job. Nothing really fancy. Start by bringing the iron up to temperature. I like it just shy of the hottest setting. Next, I cut a strip of edge banding just a bit over sized. Now with the work piece in a vertical position, I begin heating up the first 5″-6″ of the veneer. And keep the iron moving in order to avoid burning. Also notice how I occasionally tilt the iron on an angle to ensure good contact between the glue and the edge of the plywood. Once the glue is melted, go over the area with a roller to ensure full and complete contact.

This is really the step that makes a difference between a quality edge banding job and a crappy one. I then repeat the entire process on the remainder of the edge banding and this is a system that I use whether the piece is 1′ long or 6′ long. And here’s a little tip for you. Try to keep the bulk of the material to one side of the ply. This makes life a whole lot easier when it comes time to flush the veneer to the surface. Trimming the ends is fairly easy. With the veneer face down, simply scribe the edge with a utility knife and snap the piece off. I have two methods of removing the bulk of the overhang. The first is with a utility knife.

Simple and effective, but it can be difficult if you’re working on an assembled case or odd shaped parts. The second method is to use a simple block plane. After a few swipes the edging will be flush with the surface. Just take care not to gauge your ply. It’s very easy to do and it looks terrible. (scraping) The final step is 180 grit sanding. This will remove any excess glue and smooth out the edge. When it’s all said and done, you should be left with a seamless transition between the face and the edging. (funky music) So what do we do in a case like this? You’re gonna confront this a lot in standard case work. We’ve got a fitted piece in the middle here between two other pieces.

I’ll show you how that’s done. Once again, I cut an over sized strip of edge banding. The first order of business is to square up one edge. This is easy enough to do using a scrap piece of plywood, a square, and a utility knife. Just watch your fingers and lightly score the veneer before breaking it off. I place the square end of my new strip against the adjoining piece and apply some heat.

I’m really only focused on the first few inches here. Notice that I only roll toward the joint. Rolling away will cause the piece to move and result in a gap. Now that the first few inches are secure, I heat up the rest of the strip. Be sure not to glue down the last few inches. Using a square, I score the loose end of the strip so that it’s just slightly over sized and by slightly, I mean no more than about 1/64th of an inch. Now I lift up the loose end and bend the tip down so it pushes against the adjoining piece.

I then apply heat and pressure. That little bit of extra material is what gives us a perfect joint. (funky music) Now if you want to step up the quality and you want something that’s a bit more durable than veneer, you could always use these home sawn strips. Now I usually cut mine to about 1/8″ thick and about 3/4″ wide. And since most plywood is just under 3/4″, this gives me that little bit of extra material I need to ensure perfect coverage. I have two ways I like to attach thin home sawn strips.

The first is simply glue and clamps. I apply glue to both the strip and the ply. Now here’s a little tip for you. If you use scrap pieces of veneer to prop the piece of ply up, the strip will be roughly centered on the edge. I then use a small strip of alder as a call, which will distribute the clamping pressure across the surface. The second technique is about as low tech as it gets. I just use strips of tape as little clamps that secure the strip until the glue dries. Obviously this is not ideal in terms of clamping pressure, but this trick may get you out of a bind sometime. Once the glue is dry I use a flush trim saw to carefully trim off the excess material. (sawing) To flush up the edging, I start with a block plane to remove the bulk. (scraping) I follow up with a card scraper in order to avoid gauging the ply and finally, a light 180 grit sanding. The final option is to use a more substantial piece of solid edge banding.

This technique is great if you need a really durable edge or if you want to be able to route a profile into it. You can’t really do that with these thin strips. Once again, I have two techniques. The first of which is the standard glue and clamps. The second method I use is for when you’re in a bit of a rush. I use 1/4″ brad nails and glue. Before shooting the brad nails, I place a small piece of tape over each spot that I plan on driving a nail through. Now I’m not a huge fan of this method because nails don’t apply consistent pressure across the surface like clams and calls, but in some situations this may be the only option and since we’re making holes, we need to repair holes and that’s why I put the tape down first.

The tape ensures that the filler goes in the hole only and not in the surrounding grain. Now flushing the edging is the same routine. You start with the block plane, move to the card scraper, and then a little bit of sanding. (funky music) Now you want to have a little bit more fun with your edges? Here’s one of my favorite tricks. If you take a thin strip of one species and glue that on first, then glue on top of that, another species, you get the look of a fine perimeter inlay.

The doors on this jewelry box were done this way, as were the tops of our office desks. Fine furniture can mean different things to different people. While I probably wouldn’t use iron-on edge banding for my ‘fine furniture’, I wouldn’t hesitate to use solid wood edge banding, but you know, that’s just my opinion. And although I try to use solid wood in all of my projects, there are just times when plywood makes the most structural and economic sense. So as you can see, if treated properly, plywood can truly be a beautiful thing. Thanks for watching. (soft banjo music) .

Solid vs. Engineered Hardwood Flooring

With real hardwood – There are two subcategories in real hardwood. There’s solid hardwood, and there’s engineered hardwood, and let’s show you some differences between them, and some examples of both. Solid hardwood is one piece of hardwood from top to bottom. As you can see in the cross-section here, this is one piece all the way throughout, from top to bottom. Solid hardwood comes in different thicknesses. Typically it’s three quarters of an inch thick, but it could be five-eighths uh… is the lowest I’ve seen. Sometimes you’ll see a half-inch thickness of the solid hardwood, but five-eights is a little more typical these days, but the most typical you’ll see, the most prevalent is three-quarter inch solid hardwood. So that would be measuring from top to bottom. It’s all one piece of wood, whenever the piece- the product is, the species, oak, maple, um… hickory, three-quarter inch all the way top-to-bottom. The only way, really, to see the difference between solid and engineered is to look at a cross-section, because from the top, just looking at the surface, you can’t tell the difference.

Even with laminate – you can’t tell the difference between a solid hardwood, an engineered hardwood, and a laminate necessarily just by looking at the surface. You have to look at a cross-section and see how the product is actually constructed. As you can see with an engineered hardwood, an engineered hardwood is made up of layers of wood. Typically it’s seven layers, but it can be anywhere from four or five to nine, I’ve even seen, but it’s layered wood, where the wood is actually put at ninety degree angles all the way across, all the way up, and then the top layer, and usually the bottom layer as well, is the real… oak, hickory, maple, whatever the the product is.

It’s that top layer is what they’re referring to. And the top layers vary in thickness. The top layers, just like in solid or in laminate, 0:02:12.700, 0:02:16.470 could have different features. They could have a gloss on ‘em. They could have a um… a handscrape texture, but the top layer is what’s the actual real wood. Now solid hardwood, some differences between solid hardwood and engineered hardwood, solid hardwood must be nailed down, nailed or stapled down to a wood sub floor. Okay? You shoot the nails, or the staples, typically right through the tongue at an angle and that’s how you install this. So, typically solid hardwood is not installed on concrete subfloors, concrete floors. There are some glues out there that um… that do work with solid hardwood. They are very expensive. They’re relatively new to the market. We don’t even carry them uh… because we’re not a hundred percent convinced that they are the right product to install. Solid harwood – we still go with the traditional nailed down, staple down to a wood sub floor. Now, years and years ago, solid hardwood was installed by face nailing and putting nails right through the face.

That’s still done, typically only around the perimeter of a room, uh… mostly there is a staple process now, through a nail gun, which you can go out and rent if you don’t wanna buy, and you’re gonna do this project yourself um… where the the staple actually goes through the tongue as I said and then… wood go through the tongue, and then the next piece would click together a tongue and groove, and then you’d continue on through this tongue, and so forth throughout your job. So one major difference between solid hardwood and engineered hardwood is that solid hardwood must be nailed or stapled down to a wood sub floor. So that typically eliminates um…

The population out there that has no basement, that their home is just built on a concrete slab, and they’re doing their project on the first floor. The engineered hardwood you have options in terms of how to install it. It can go down on it wood subfloor or concrete subfloor. On a concrete subfloor, you can actually glue it down direct. You trowel out glue, and put the actual pieces down. That’s very common, a little more difficult for the do-it-yourselfer, but still very common. The other way to install over a concrete subfloor would be to float. You’d actually glue the tongue and grooves together. Put a thin bead of glue in the groove side. Glue the tongue and grooves together and float over a pad. You’d lay a pad out first, just like in laminate. The other way to do it, if you are on a wood sub floor, is just like with solid. You can actually shoot staples through the tongue side, and install it that way. So, there are some installation differences between solid and engineered.

Typically must be mailed or stapled. Wood subfloor only for solid. Engineered you can glue, you can staple, or you can float. You have your options. Now, with solid hardwood, if you get a deep gouge, a deep scratch, um… something damages the floor itself, you have the option, and this is one of the great benefits of solid, you have the option of sanding the floor and refinishing it. The absolute great benefit of solid hardwood – it can be sanded and refinished. Typically multiple times. It’s typically job done by a professional, and they know just how deep to go to get that gouge out that you’re looking for, to replace or to to fix, and they do a very good job of not taking too much off so that you can do it multiple times if you want.

But if you have a deep gouge, a deep scratch, you want change the stain color, you do have that opportunity to sand and refinish. Now, if the the solid hardwood that you have in your home or your business had a handscraped texture to it, if it gets sanded remember that handscrape is gonna be gone, because they’re gonna take it down to a smooth, flat, level surface, and then they’ll apply the stain. So a definite benefit is that can be sanded and refinished, but keep in mind, with the sanding and refinishing comes a pretty good expense.

Um, could be upwards of two, three dollars a square foot, some cases even more cost to you to get it sanded and refinished. It typically – they do have some newer ways of doing it now but it typically is very messy, very dusty, Typically all the furniture in the home gets moved out. The job takes a few day- two to three days, and then all the furniture gets moved back in, so it is a process, but it is a great benefit to solid hardwood, there’s no doubt about it. SOME engineered hardwoods can be sanded and refinished. Typically, that’s not the case. Typically they can’t be. What it depends on, really, is the thickness of that top layer of the engineered hardwood, and if a professional can actually sand down and still stay within the top layer so that you can stain it, recoat it, and still have a beautiful floor. At Floors To Your Home we don’t recommend sanding and refinishing engineered hardwoods.

It’s just – there are too many people out there doing the sanding and the refinishing, and we don’t want to say to you that we guarantee you that you can sand and refinish this wood X amount of times. That’s just not something we do. We want to be upfront and honest with you and tell you that typically you’re better off on our engineered products not sanding and refinishing. So again, a great difference between the solid and the engineered: can be sanded and refinished, typically not on the engineered. Now, with solid hardwood, solid hardwood is typically the most expensive flooring product, wood flooring product, out on the market. People consider it the best of the best, and it’s a great product, there’s no doubt about it, but there are things you need to consider when you’re buying solid. Because of the nature of the installation, because of shooting the nails into a wood subfloor, you do have the opportunity to see what we call cupping over time. Now, because of changes in humidity and temperature, in your home and in the area you live, you can see, you WILL see, the actual individual boards of wood expand and contract.

Now when they contract, you can see boards – and i’ll show you a liottle example of this – you can see boards tend to come apart a little bit, (they’re not gonna come apart this much) but they will come apart a little bit, and they can cup, and you can see gaps in your floor where before that bevel was tight, the tongue and groove were tight, and maybe they came apart a quarter of an inch, or three-eighths of an inch or half an inch. It’s something that happens, again due to changes in temperature and humidity. It’s very possible that that could happen to you in your installation. With engineered hardwood, because of its layered properties, okay, because it’s not one piece of wood from top to bottom, because of these layers, it has greater stability against changes in humidity and temperature, especially when you float the product, you glue the tongue and grooves together, you will see – there will be expansion contraction, but because it’s a floating floor, the floor will move (you’ll never see it or feel it) the floor will move and take care of itself.

You will not seek cupping with this product. It is a benefit of engineered over the solid hardwood. Those are the main differences between engineered and solid. There really aren’t a lot of other differences. They both, as i’ve said before, they both can have gloss finishes. They both can have textured, handscraped finishes. They both could have beveled edges, any of the aesthetic features can be shared between the two of them. They both come in a variety of species, color stains, everything else is is relatively the same – widths, you know, anywhere from two and a quarter-inch width 0:10:23.890, 0:10:28.320 up to, I’ve even seen thirteen inch wide boards. That could be a solid hardwood or an engineered hardwood. You you really don’t need to pick one of those two to get a specific species or, you know, to get a natural hickory, or to get a three-inch natural hickory. They’re gonna be available in either an engineered product or a solid product.

But the basics of this, and the purpose of this, is to really just tell you the difference, and explain the difference, between a solid hardwood and an engineered hardwood. Solid hardwood, it’s pluses and minuses, it’s a great great product, the best of the best, must be nailed down uh… one piece from top to bottom, can be sanded and refinished. Engineered hardwood: also great product, a great product for those of you out there on concrete slabs, that can’t have the solid.

If you want the real thing, this is it. There is no difference from looking above. Your friends will never know whether you have solid hardwood or engineered hardwood. When you go to resell your home, this is still classified as wood. You can still put ‘W’, for word, on that and M L S sheet. You have wood in your home. Those are the differences. If you have any other specific questions on differences between solid hardwood, engineered hardwood and laminate, please feel free to give our customer service reps a call.

We’re standing by to answer your questions. We’re always happy to help and answer any questions you may have. Thank you. .