How To Build A Wooden Desk Lamp | DIY Project

Today I’m going to show you how to make this gorgeous looking wooden desk lamp using simple hand tools. For material I used two solid wood boards, one board 3 centimeters wide and thick, and another board 1 centimeter wide and thick. To create the lampshade, I used a piece of paper and the linen fabric. I also need a light bulb, a socket, and a cord. So, let’s get started! First, I marked all those dimensions needed for the lamp base. Then I cut the board using a handsaw. You can find the exact dimensions down in the video description.

Next, I’m sanding the edges of the pieces that I’ve cut to make them even, so it would be easier to work with the glue. To get the desired shape, I glued all the pieces of the wood together using a wood glue, a square ruler, and some clamps. You need a lot of patience, because you can’t glue all at once, but it’s definitely worth the time. Before gluing the last piece of wood I marked the center point of the lampshade and drilled a hole for the cord 4.5 centimeters deep using 6 millimeter bit. I extended the hole from the backside of the same piece of wood at a 45 degree angle, so it would be much easier for the cord to pass through. Then I glued up this last piece of the lamp base. Now let’s move on to the lampshade frame.

I marked the dimensions of the second board. I made a cuboid frame 20 centimeters high and 15 centimeters wide. So, I cut four pieces 12 centimeters long and eight pieces 13 centimeters long. The last and most important piece of wood is the frame support with size 5 by 13 centimeters. I used a 30 millimeter bit to countersink a hole 1 centimeter deep. then I used six millimeter bit to drill a hole all the way through, so that it perfectly matched the center of the base. The next step is building the cuboid frame. I glued all the pieces together and used square ruler along with the clamps to make a perfect right angle. To make everything nice and level, I’m going to hit with 120 grit sandpaper which should make a quick work of all the unevenness. then I finished it off with a spray paint. I painted both the base and the frame with the chocolate brown spray paint, because I wanted to create more contrast between them and the lampshade. I applied two coats of spray paint and left it to dry out.

After that, I moved on to making the lampshade. I used a paper roll and cut 62 by 21 centimeters of it. I also cut the linen fabric 63 by 23 centimeters, so that I could easily glue it to the paper, and fold the edges to get nice and smooth look. It took me some time until I finished gluing the fabric to the paper, because I wanted to make sure everything was lined up. I decided to use a wood glue and it actually turned out quite well. The glue wasn’t drying too fast, so I had some time to adjust the fabric to the paper with a ruler. I glued up the lampshade to the frame. It is very important to do this carefully, one side at a time, because you need to align the edges of the frame with the edges of the shade. I folded the fabric on the top of the frame to get the desired look, but you can skip this step simply by cutting the paper 20 centimeters wide at the beginning now. I can finally put all the pieces together. I’m mixing up some 5 min epoxy to stick the socket. I made sure everything was lined up, and then used wood glue to stick the lampshade to the base.

I held it with finger pressure for only a few minutes until the glue started to harden. I suggest you use LED light bulb, because it produces a very small insignificant amount of heat. This is the final result, and I ended up really liking it. Thank you so much for watching, and if you enjoyed this video hit the like button, and also subscribe to my channel if you want more DIY projects like this every week. .

DIY Plywood – Cali Bamboo Profiles 3 MakerPlace Woodworkers

It comes as no surprise that Cali Bamboo’s plywood is ideal for creating basically any product that is traditionally made out of wood. Now recently, we’ve learned that several of our bamboo plywood customers make their creations at somewhere called Maker Place. Which lead us to wonder what is Maker Place? Maker Place operates pretty much like a 24 Hour Fitness or your typical gym model where it’s a membership a monthly membership. We also have yearly memberships.

We started this back in December of last year just as a place where people have a workshop and have access to big tools that they normally wouldn’t have access to. Otherwise, the overhead cost to get these things developed would be too much and people would never be able to see it through. Hi, I’m Alex, the creator of the bamboo lunch box. It’s a project me and my friend came up because of our love of sustainability and lunch. Everybody has great memories of lunch and recess in school and they always remember their lunch box. And everybody had cool characters and good memories of it, so we kinda took the Japanese style Bento box and American style lunch box. Mashed it together and we’re hopefully coming out with awesome different creations with limited edition art series at My name’s Mike Lucero. I developed the Backsedator about twelve years ago, thirteen years ago. And what it is is an acupressure board, that’s basically a natural pain reliever, muscle relaxer and muscle balancer all in one. This is the AccuHook, and what it really is is the back board hits up to a certain point.

The AccuHook works from that point on, so it’s really designed to work from your cervical region, ok up your spine, up to the base of your skull. And then back out from your trapezius, back on up through the cervical region of the neck. So it goes off the same thing Meridian Line therapy and pressure point application. This is what we call The Cash Box. It’s a bamboo ipowered point of sale built with all natural materials and earth friendly bamboo, earth friendly leather. It uses the iPad. It’s got a thermal printer built into it. It’s got a cash drawer built into it. And it’s got this really nifty mechanism where the cashier can ring up the order, swipe the customer’s credit card, send the iPad over to the customer, the screen rotates around, they use their finger to sign. We discovered Cali Bamboo and it kind of opened our eyes to a whole other world. And with these bamboo plywoods we can treat this bamboo as if it was regular old plywood, and cut it and stain it and oil it, and do whatever we were going to do to wood to this bamboo.

And you get these really amazing lustrous finishes. It’s unique, it’s different, and it allows you to market the product on the whole eco side of the world. At Maker Place I have access to all kinds of equipment that I wouldn’t normally have, and allows me to do really cool creative stuff that I would only be able to dream of without Maker Place.


What Kind of Finish Should You Use? | WOOD FINISHING BASICS

Grab yourself a good quality brush and prepare to — Microjig, maker of the Gripper. Work safer. Work smarter. — You’ll probably want to protect most of your projects you make with a finish. But applying a wood finish doesn’t have to be complicated. Let’s look at the basics to make things even easier on you. Some projects may not require any finish at all. For example there’s no huge benefit to applying a finish to shop projects.

A storage or tool cabinets or tables or work benches. Of course if you have a lot of visitors to your shop and you’d like to show off a beautiful workspace, then by all means, spruce up your shop fixtures. I like to paint some of my shop cabinets because the bright colors just make me happy and brighten up my mood. Speaking of which, I believe paint is the strongest, most durable, most practical, easiest to apply, finish there is. If it’s long-term durability you want, go with paint. I mean really, we use paint on our houses for a reason, because they’re subjected to all kinds of harsh weather conditions. Plus the choice of colors is unlimited. But of course the main drawback to paint is that it hides the wood and from my own experience on this show, that tends to make some people cranky.

There are lots of great-looking examples of painted furniture, and it really shouldn’t be discounted as an option. But for this video I’m only going to focus on clear protective topcoat. There are two main reasons to apply finish to wood projects. First, wood finishes help to protect wood from scratches, moisture damage, spills, stains, and UV damage from sunlight. Secondly, a finish will make wood look great. It’s very rewarding to watch the color and grain pop as soon as you apply a finish. Plus a nicely finished piece is very tactile and it just feels nice no matter what type of finish you use. It’s important to sand your project first. I usually start with a 120 grit sandpaper and then move up to a 220 grit sandpaper and I stop there. There’s rarely any reason to sand to any finer grit because the smooth feel of your surfaces will come from the finish that you apply after sanding. Make sure you remove all of the sawdust from your project. Dust particles are the bane of a good finish. I like to vacuum off the surfaces then wipe them off with a tack cloth then with a clean lint-free cloth like an old t-shirt.

I wipe everything down with mineral spirits or paint Center and this will also highlight any dents that are in the wood or any dried glue you may have missed. Plus it gives you a quick preview of what the wood will look like once it’s finished. For lots more information on sanding watch this basic video over here. If you go to a home center or hardware store it’s easy to be overwhelmed with choices. There are a lot of ways you could finish wood. There are entire books on the subject of finishing. In this video I’m only going to discuss a few of the most common finishes that hobbyists might want to use. There are two main kinds of finish. First, a layered finish. One that sticks to the surface of the wood, kind of like paint does. This includes polyurethane, lacquer, and other varnishes. And secondly, an oil finish, one that penetrates into the grain of the wood such as linseed oil or tung oil.

In general, a layered finish will offer a lot more protection to the wood, but it can look a little artificial or in some cases kind of plastic-y. Oil finishes on the other hand, are kind of earthier. The wood looks great and more natural but they don’t offer nearly as much protection. Polyurethane is probably the most popular finish today. The biggest drawback is that it can be very time consuming to apply. To get a good finish you need to apply at least three coats which realistically might take three days. Applying any finish with a brush is different than painting.

The goal is to avoid swiping back and forth and creating streaks or leaving behind air bubbles. It’s a good idea to pour your finish into a separate container to use rather than straight out of the can. This will help prevent contaminating your main supply. I like to start by conditioning my brush and dipping it in mineral spirits and soaking the bristles. Dip the brush into the finish all the way up to the ferrule and let it soak up as much as it can. Lightly press the tip against the can to remove any excess that might drip. A good quality brush should hold quite a bit of finish. Start at one edge of the wood and try to apply the finish in one long stroke along the entire length of the board, pressing down more and more on the brush as you get to the end, letting it release the finish the entire way.

Fill the brush up again and apply more slightly overlapping the first stroke. Mostly avoid brushing back and forth as if you were painting a fence. Use long steady strokes trying to let the finish flow as evenly as possible brush slowly and don’t stop to take a break until the entire surface is completely covered. If you find that you’ve missed a spot, skip it. Just leave it for the next coat. If you try to dab in a patch it can make it look worse. Also it’s a good idea to start with the edges and vertical surfaces of a project, then finish up with the top surface. Check the back of the can to see how much time you need to let it dry between coats. It could be 5 hours or more for an oil-based polyurethane and less time for water-based. Dry times will also differ based on temperature and humidity. Once each coat is dry it should be lightly sanded with 320 grit sandpaper to remove any dust nibs and help smooth the surface.

But don’t drive yourself crazy trying to get every inch perfectly sanded. In my experience, polyurethane will adhere just fine to the previous layer even without sanding. But sanding will give the finish a smoother feel. And make sure you remove all of the sanding dust before applying the next coat. Pay extra special care to applying the final coat to avoid brush marks, runs, and streaks. And use a good quality brush. You can buy oil or water-based poly. Both provide excellent protection to wood and each has its own advantages and disadvantages. Water-based poly is a lot easier to use. It has less odor and cleanup is easy with just soap and water. To clean up oil-based poly, you’ll need mineral spirits. Water-based poly dries a lot faster than oil-based poly but you’ll need to apply more coats. Usually three coats is fine for oil, but water-based poly will need four or even more coats. But really the biggest difference in the two types is how they look on wood.

I tend to prefer oil-based polyurethane because it gives the wood a warmer somewhat amber look that most people find very pleasing. Water-based poly is really clear sometimes people complain that it looks like a plastic coating on wood. Finally, there’s a third option called wipe-on poly which is just regular polyurethane that the manufacturer has thinned down with mineral spirits. You can actually just make your own if you like. It’s easy to apply, just pour some on a rag and wipe it on the wood. Wipe-on poly finish can look really great and sometimes even better than a brushed on finish. Of course you’ll probably need to add more coats of it for good results. If you’ve watched my show for any length of time you know that my favorite finish to use is a lacquer. It looks great and it dries incredibly fast.

With lacquer you can finish an entire project in just a few hours. Even faster for small projects. Almost all wood furniture that you might buy at a store is finished with lacquer. In industrial and professional production environments it’s always sprayed on with an HVLP sprayer. You can learn more about HVLP spraying here. Luckily there are two easier options available for hobbyists and weekened woodworkers. The first is brushing lacquer. Apply it using the exact same brushing procedure I described for polyurethane. The only change in technique is to brush a little faster and definitely, definitely don’t brush back and forth. Lacquer dries so quickly that it can gum up if you overwork it. Again, if you miss a spot don’t try to fix it, just get it in the next coat. If you can set up a backlight so that you can look across the surface as you apply the finish that helps out a lot.

The best part about lacquer is that you don’t need to sand it between coats. Rather than sitting on top of each other, each coat fuses into the one beneath it and this combination of fast drying and not having to sand allows you to build up lots of coats of lacquer in a very short time. You’ll need lacquer thinner to clean your brushes but I don’t clean the brushes thoroughly between coats. I like to just wrap the brush in a paper towel or rag moistened with lacquer thinner and just put it in a plastic bag.

I like to lightly sand the surface before applying the final coat of lacquer this will knock down any little dust nibs or drips and make the top coat very smooth. Without question, lacquer from a spray can is my go-to finish. It’s easy to apply, just spray it on in a back-and-forth motion being careful not to get too close or too slow where it can develop drips or runs. For small projects spray lacquer is an absolutely fantastic finish. You don’t need any brushes or lacquer thinner. To learn more about my technique for getting a great spray lacquer finish, watch this video over here. After the lacquer has fully cured say 24 hours or so, I like to smooth out the topcoat. To me this is what separates a good finish from a great finish. One that is very tactile and feels smooth without any dust nibs or other imperfections.

I almost always use gloss lacquer to get an easy satin finish. From that I lightly sand the surface with Faurot steel wool or a gray synthetic scrubbing pad. If you want you can actually rub that finish to a super high-gloss finish using finer and finer sandpaper and pumice. But that’s a topic for another video. I usually limit it to just that one smoothing because I like the look and feel of a satin finish. Of course you can buy satin lacquer but you’ll still need to rub down that final coat if you want it to have that great tactile feel. Gloss lacquer is just more versatile. Lacquer can be more expensive than other finishes, especially the spray cans. Secondly, lacquer has a very strong order that can be really harmful to breathe so use a respirator rated for organic vapors and solvent filtering. Lastly, some people complain about the look of lacquered finishes saying they look too artificial. I don’t share that opinion at all and I love the look of lacquered pieces. When you want a beautiful finish that looks absolutely gorgeous and really shows off the wood, an oil finish is a great option, plus it’s really the easiest finish to apply.

But like I mentioned earlier, an oil finish doesn’t offer much protection to wood it would not be a good choice say for a dining table or a desk that’s subjected to a lot of use. But an oil finish can be a good option for decorative pieces say picture frames or jewelry boxes. Oil finishes are arguably the most natural looking, close to the wood, earthy way to finish wood. There are basically two types of oil finishes Tung oil and Linseed oil. They both penetrate into the wood unlike lacquer or polyurethane that builds up on top of the wood. Applying either one is easy you just pour some on a rag or directly on the wood surface and wipe it in.

Let it sit for five to ten minutes then wipe it off. If I’m using Linseed oil I’d like to let it dry a couple of hours and then lightly sand the surface and apply a second coat. I’ve never seen any benefit to applying any more coats than two. Let it dry overnight and you’re good to go. Tung oil on the other hand can take days. Use the same wipe on wipe off procedure as a linseed oil but let it dry 24 hours before sanding it and applying the next coat.

Usually you’ll need to apply four or five coats. The benefit to Tung oil is that it offers more water resistance than linseed oil so it might be a good choice for say an end table that doesn’t get a whole lot of use. But if water resistance is your main concern why bother with an oil finish at all? Just use poly or lacquer. A third alternative that I consider an oil finish is Danish oil and it it’s actually a blend of polyurethane and Tung or linseed oil. I think it tries to be the best of both worlds in for the most part it does a pretty good job. But as you might expect it doesn’t look quite as natural as a pure oil finish and it doesn’t offer the protection of a layered finish.

In fact, a lot of people apply a coat of straight polyurethane on top of the Danish oil for added protection. For the most part finishing doesn’t have to be a real chore and for small projects you can’t go wrong with the simplicity of spray lacquer. Well there are lots of other types of finishes such as shellac and finishing wax and there are tons of different techniques for finishing wood. I hope this video has been helpful and is enough to get you started. Please be sure to subscribe to Woodworking for Mere Mortals and share this video if you found it useful. Thanks for watching everybody! I’ll see you next time. .

How to make a plywood Tatami Bed

Welcome back! Today I’m going to make a Japanese-style bed. These beds are lower than western ones, with the mattress embedded in a wooden frame. I’ve tried to come up with a design that would be easy to make using plywood, although other kinds of wooden sheets could also be used. Besides, this design is easy to assemble and disassemble, quite convenient if we want to move. I’ve designed two types of bed. This one is meant to be adapted to a common metal bed frame which you can find in any store. As you can see, the bed frame rests on these four corners which, in turn, join all the pieces. The other bed design is of the same size. However, for this design we’ll use a homemade plywood frame. In this video I’ll show you how I made the first of the two models, although both beds have similar makes.

By changing the length of some pieces we can adapt this design to any bed size. Now let’s take a look at how I made it. This time around, in order to save time I’ve ordered some pre-cut pieces from the same warehouse where I bought the board, since the parts are quite large. I’ll start by cutting these pieces at an angle. They’ll be used to make the headboard thicker. I’ll also machine this rebate to work around the floor plinth. I’ll also glue these pieces together, onto which I will later screw the bed side rails. Now I glue the three upper side rails together to make them thicker. I machine these pieces like this and put them in place with glue.

I sand these parts now that it’s easier and screw the bed side rails in like this. Now I can start assembling the bed. I cut these two pieces in half to make four supports for the bed frame. First I screw this one onto the side rails, keeping it 1mm away from the edge. I remove the piece and then screw it onto the headboard. This way, when screwing it back on, the screws will put pressure and the joint between the side rail and the headboard will be tighter. I’ll use the same system for the back. I’ve numbered all the corners to make future assemblies easier. With these last screws I finish putting the bed together. Now it’s time to set up the nightstands. I glue these parts together and add a little salt to stop them from moving due to the glue’s viscosity. Once the glue is dry, I sand the inner part now that it’s easier and continue assembling the nightstands.

I finish sanding all the pieces that make up the bed and apply three coats of satin water-based varnish. I’m going to put everything back together at the workshop to see what the finished bed looks like. I love how the edge of the plywood looks. Of course, we could apply some dye to change the color, but I like the natural look of birch wood. .

33 – How To Edgeband Plywood

Marc: Plywood is an excellent material for building furniture. But it suffers from one major flaw, ugly edges. (rock music) Despite what some may think, plywood is not a four letter word. Actually it’s more like seven letters and you definitely should not be afraid to use it in your projects. Some of my favorite pieces contain plywood. The panels of this amoire, the doors of this jewelry box, the top of this hall table, and this entire desk system. Yep, all plywood. Plywood is flat, it’s stable, and it comes in lots of varieties. And you could even use plywood as a base for your favorite exotic veneers. Now, descent plywood should run you at least $40 a sheet, but even the most expensive plywood presents the same old challenge. How do you treat the edges? Now the most common solution is edge banding. Edge banding comes in a number of varieties including; thin veneer, thin home sawn veneer, and then a more substantial solid wood strip.

The thin veneer edge banding usually comes in rolls like this and it can be purchased plain or in the iron-on variety. Now personally I prefer a good quality iron-on banding. By good quality, I mean a nice, clean face and a good chunky layer of glue on the other side. Now, I usually pick this material up at my local hardwood dealer. So why not use the regular stuff, without the pre-applied glue? Well, I find it difficult to get the proper clamping pressure across the edge and it’s a lot messier.

It also takes a lot longer to dry, so pre-glued is the only way to go in my shop. Now, it’s no secret that veneer edge banding gets a pretty bad rap. Most people see this stuff and immediately think that it’s gonna peel off or just become a problem down the road and that’s not necessarily true if you use the right material and you apply it correctly. Let me show you how. Here are the basic tools you’ll need for the job. Nothing really fancy. Start by bringing the iron up to temperature. I like it just shy of the hottest setting. Next, I cut a strip of edge banding just a bit over sized. Now with the work piece in a vertical position, I begin heating up the first 5″-6″ of the veneer. And keep the iron moving in order to avoid burning. Also notice how I occasionally tilt the iron on an angle to ensure good contact between the glue and the edge of the plywood. Once the glue is melted, go over the area with a roller to ensure full and complete contact.

This is really the step that makes a difference between a quality edge banding job and a crappy one. I then repeat the entire process on the remainder of the edge banding and this is a system that I use whether the piece is 1′ long or 6′ long. And here’s a little tip for you. Try to keep the bulk of the material to one side of the ply. This makes life a whole lot easier when it comes time to flush the veneer to the surface. Trimming the ends is fairly easy. With the veneer face down, simply scribe the edge with a utility knife and snap the piece off. I have two methods of removing the bulk of the overhang. The first is with a utility knife.

Simple and effective, but it can be difficult if you’re working on an assembled case or odd shaped parts. The second method is to use a simple block plane. After a few swipes the edging will be flush with the surface. Just take care not to gauge your ply. It’s very easy to do and it looks terrible. (scraping) The final step is 180 grit sanding. This will remove any excess glue and smooth out the edge. When it’s all said and done, you should be left with a seamless transition between the face and the edging. (funky music) So what do we do in a case like this? You’re gonna confront this a lot in standard case work. We’ve got a fitted piece in the middle here between two other pieces.

I’ll show you how that’s done. Once again, I cut an over sized strip of edge banding. The first order of business is to square up one edge. This is easy enough to do using a scrap piece of plywood, a square, and a utility knife. Just watch your fingers and lightly score the veneer before breaking it off. I place the square end of my new strip against the adjoining piece and apply some heat.

I’m really only focused on the first few inches here. Notice that I only roll toward the joint. Rolling away will cause the piece to move and result in a gap. Now that the first few inches are secure, I heat up the rest of the strip. Be sure not to glue down the last few inches. Using a square, I score the loose end of the strip so that it’s just slightly over sized and by slightly, I mean no more than about 1/64th of an inch. Now I lift up the loose end and bend the tip down so it pushes against the adjoining piece.

I then apply heat and pressure. That little bit of extra material is what gives us a perfect joint. (funky music) Now if you want to step up the quality and you want something that’s a bit more durable than veneer, you could always use these home sawn strips. Now I usually cut mine to about 1/8″ thick and about 3/4″ wide. And since most plywood is just under 3/4″, this gives me that little bit of extra material I need to ensure perfect coverage. I have two ways I like to attach thin home sawn strips.

The first is simply glue and clamps. I apply glue to both the strip and the ply. Now here’s a little tip for you. If you use scrap pieces of veneer to prop the piece of ply up, the strip will be roughly centered on the edge. I then use a small strip of alder as a call, which will distribute the clamping pressure across the surface. The second technique is about as low tech as it gets. I just use strips of tape as little clamps that secure the strip until the glue dries. Obviously this is not ideal in terms of clamping pressure, but this trick may get you out of a bind sometime. Once the glue is dry I use a flush trim saw to carefully trim off the excess material. (sawing) To flush up the edging, I start with a block plane to remove the bulk. (scraping) I follow up with a card scraper in order to avoid gauging the ply and finally, a light 180 grit sanding. The final option is to use a more substantial piece of solid edge banding.

This technique is great if you need a really durable edge or if you want to be able to route a profile into it. You can’t really do that with these thin strips. Once again, I have two techniques. The first of which is the standard glue and clamps. The second method I use is for when you’re in a bit of a rush. I use 1/4″ brad nails and glue. Before shooting the brad nails, I place a small piece of tape over each spot that I plan on driving a nail through. Now I’m not a huge fan of this method because nails don’t apply consistent pressure across the surface like clams and calls, but in some situations this may be the only option and since we’re making holes, we need to repair holes and that’s why I put the tape down first.

The tape ensures that the filler goes in the hole only and not in the surrounding grain. Now flushing the edging is the same routine. You start with the block plane, move to the card scraper, and then a little bit of sanding. (funky music) Now you want to have a little bit more fun with your edges? Here’s one of my favorite tricks. If you take a thin strip of one species and glue that on first, then glue on top of that, another species, you get the look of a fine perimeter inlay.

The doors on this jewelry box were done this way, as were the tops of our office desks. Fine furniture can mean different things to different people. While I probably wouldn’t use iron-on edge banding for my ‘fine furniture’, I wouldn’t hesitate to use solid wood edge banding, but you know, that’s just my opinion. And although I try to use solid wood in all of my projects, there are just times when plywood makes the most structural and economic sense. So as you can see, if treated properly, plywood can truly be a beautiful thing. Thanks for watching. (soft banjo music) .

Building a queen size bed from 2×4 lumber

I want to build a queen size bed for a friend using my plans. And I picked up most of the lumber from the Home Depot with my car. Now the plans actually call for a lot of 2 by 4’s and even 2 by 3’s, but I actually bought mostly 2 by 10’s, just because that way I got much better quality lumber. I’ll start by making the side rails and I want to use some of the nicest looking lumber for that, because that’s the most viable. And that side rail needs to be 7 inches wide. You heard that right, 7 inches. I’m actually using inches for this project. These big planer shavings sure fill up a dust collector fast. Now that I have the pieces planed, I can cut them to length. Now I need to glue on this rail, here and that will later support the slats. Now for the legs I need a whole bunch of pieces that are 2 1/2 inches wide.

But, I’ll cut these to a little bit wider from here so I can trim them down later. Now I’m gonna join the leg pieces together and here’s my long piece and this goes here, and this goes here. These 2 boards are gonna form the headboard with the posts on either side, like here and like here. And I want to give this a bit of a nice profile, so I modified the CAD model and freed up the template for this, and I’m just gonna trace that through, by outlining those lines with a carpenter’s pencil. And that will leave a mark on the wood. For the mirror image, I’m tracing my pattern through the back.

I’m just using a strip of wood to smooth out between the place that I traced through. Now, I’m just gonna round-over the edges before I put the headboard together. So, here’s my glued headboard legs and I could smooth the joints out with a hand plane, but I’ll just do it on my jointer. Here is roughly what my headboard is gonna go together like this. In my plans, I have this joined with dowels but, I’m gonna use some floating tenons, like these. They’re sort of like really big festival domino’s. And that should be much better. I cut these from a strip of Oak and rounded the corners on my router table. And I’ve already joined the foot board with those so, now let’s cut the joints for this one. I just worked up the spacing for the mortises and for each one of those I marked on which side the mortise goes so I don’t cut on the wrong side.

I’m gonna cut the slats on my slot mortiser which I haven’t been using that much since I built the pantorouter. But, this machine does slot mortises really well. I just transferred all the mortise locations for the rails. Now I can also cut those on my slot mortiser. I’m gluing blocks of wood between the slats and that will keep them from sliding around. I’m cutting down the slats in thickness towards the ends, which will allow them to rest a bit lower on the frame. And it also makes up for any differences in thickness in the scrap wood that I’m using. Before gluing it together, I’m rounding over all the exposed edges. Well, that took some fast action with the clamps and some hard pounding to get that joint fully closed. I guess that’s certainly a problem you could avoid, if you just used pocket holes. After that, I varnished all the pieces, but it was pretty boring so I didn’t take video of that.

Headboards are almost always pushed against the wall so I cut out this corner here, for a baseboard and cord around. A little bit, it fits. .